Off to the races in Deauville

Thursday, July 9

Today we headed down to the market next to the fountain. Apparently it’s a daily thing during summer here in Deauville, "one of Normandy’s most beautiful sea-side resorts; founded by the Duc de Morny and created between 1860 and 1864."

En route to the market we stopped for breakfast at a nice little café, where several people were reading papers and eating croissants.

I had a Swiss pain de chocolate, which had a filling along w/ the chocolate. Very tasty. And the kids stuck with their pain de chocolate.

At the market we bought shawls to stay warm – no great buys on sweaters or sweatshirts. Then we checked out all the wares: some great looking fruit, vegetables, salamis and other dried meats, the cheeses looked fabulous.

There were a couple of fish stands, some clothing and jewelry, perfumes, flowers, honey, beeswax statues of the Madonna, lots of preserves. All kinds of fun stuff to peruse.

Then we wandered to the Hippodrome, where we’d been directed for a tour and horse races. It was the wrong one (this isn’t just a two horse town; it sports two Hippodromes, one for polo, the other for racing).

This might be why: Home to the Deauville-La Touques Racecourse, the countryside around Deauville is the main horse breeding region in France and home to numerous stud farms. As a result, the city is twinned with Lexington, Kentucky and County Kildare in Ireland, both of which are world leaders in breeding thoroughbred racehorses. The important Ventes de Deauville yearling auction is held in mid-August each year at Deauville.

We got to wander inside this Hippodrome, see some horses and riders and the gorgeous course. Someone pointed us to the town’s other Hippodrome for races. En route we stopped at two or three churches – a lovely little chapel was memorable, with a nun who closed up shop as we left.

Eventually after skirting the entire other Hippodrome (plenty of walking today; Claire’s been a trooper – Ava’s got it made w/ the stroller) we found the entrance, I bought a ticket (kids free) and we were in time to watch the horses being led out to the track for the first race. Then we found a snack bar for lunch – sandwiches and hot dogs (best hot dog I've had in eons, I might add -- horse meat? I know, bad joke) – and went outside for another race.

Gorgeous horses and track, set in a little valley surrounded by Deauville/Trouville’s green, rolling hills. Around the viewing area were lots of gorgeous flower displays and a large playground with free entertainment for kids. Claire and Ava took pony rides (they looked adorable sporting riding helmets), rode in a cart pulled by a horse, did bouncy rides and climbing activities, pedaled horse carriages, etc.

We were there from noon to four, then collapsed after wandering back to the hotel.
Before dinner the kids swam again, then we chose a lovely little French café near the city center for dinner. Enjoyed wonderful, friendly service – I tried foie grois and am a French food failure – it’s just not my thing (though I did so enjoy the jam and bread it was served with – does that count?). My shrimp and risotto were excellent, kids had great pasta and chicken and we finished the meal with some amazing pots de crème – white, milk and dark chocolate.