Last Stop: the Beach!

Saturday, January 31

This morning we left Cochin for parts south – long drive but it went fast. We ended up in Kovalam, about 30 miles from the tip of India. On the Arabian Sea (the hotel) was in a lovely spot. Our drive was through lots of villages; we could see the coast at times, lots of fishermen working on their nets. We passed many canals and waterways, more Chinese fishnets, fish boats. In one spot we saw 20 or so big fishing boats used for catching larger fish at sea. En route were a number of mosques, lots of churches – all seemed well taken care of, the mosques with their lovely towers and traditional Persian architecture.

I was told the Muslim religion is the fastest growing one in the area. We did see more trash than in other parts of Kerala on our drive, but overall still less than around Dehi and other areas. And we saw fewer beggers here – more schools connected with churches. I’ve heard from several people in the area that Kerala’s near 100% literacy rate can be attributed, in part, to the European influences of bringing schools linked w/ churches to the area.

BTW on our trip we saw kids walking to/from school (all wear uniforms) on Saturday. Some school days are taken off for festivals so they make up time as needed on the occasional Saturday, Ramu said. He also said people who work in markets (stalls) generally work everyday (Sunday may be the exception) in Tamil Nadu, from 9 or 9:30 until the last customer leaves (generally between 9 and 10). He said in Kerala, which is more unionized w/ Communist party, work hours aren’t as long.

Attitudes and existence of the the whole “empowered woman” thing here is interesting here. For example, we saw a woman driving a scooter – Ramu commented that women in his world (from the viallage) don’t drive, they listen and follow parental direction, aren’t “independent” (though one wonders what that definition is).

The "woman driving motorbike" is not a terribly common sight in India but certainly is more often seen in cities. (Most women ride side saddle on the back of motorbikes, gracefully perched in their brightly colored saris, oftentimes casually holding a baby or toddler. One will see a man driving, complete with helmet. But his passengers will be bereft of headgear, even the children. Apparently it's a law that male drivers here wear the helmets, unless they're wearing a turban -- then no helmet. But no one else needs to sport one.)

Ramu informed me the day before this "independent woman" conversation that parents wish for boys because of the dowry thing (expensive) and wedding expenses, and because girls leave home to live with the husband’s family while the boys stay and work.

I don’t think he believed me when I said my husband and I view boys and girls in the same light. Much as I like many things about India, the pervasive attitude about gender inequality would be very difficult to live with.

Our Cochin guide said 40 % of women there work, and our guide in Trivandrum said women now are much more financially independent, owning homes, working, etc.

Back to travels – we checked into our hotel, hit the beach and prepared to relax at the pool, one of three – the place has 5 restaurants, too. No need to leave paradise. We watched the sunset and waves crash on the coast of the Arabian Sea. I ordered wine – now why do I continue to do that here? It was less than good so I had a few sips, learned the restaurant wasn’t one of the hotel 5 so asked the guy if I could pay later (no cash on hand). He was quite amenable so we came back for dinner. This time I had a pina colada – vodka and freshly squeezed pineapple juice. This I could do at home (when I get that juicer, of course).

And yes, a juicer is on my list; I’ve been spoiled by freshly squeezed lime juice, grape juice, guava juice, orange juice, mango juice, pineapple juice…(watermelon best eaten cold at a picnic – why bother juicing?).

Dinner was slow as they prepare everything from scratch (according to the menu, anyway – or maybe they have to go retrieve it from the ocean). It certainly was a tasty shrimp/vegetable/spice dish, served with garlic naan (typically served with rice here but I'd had enough of that).