Our arrival home from Scotlandwas uneventful, on time, all that good stuff. Greeting us in the garden was the summer concert. Apparently there is a cadre of good musicians in the neighborhood who gather to throw a nice late afternoon concert in our back yard. We threw open the windows and enjoyed their talent.
I must say I love the garden, despite its limitations (essentially no balls, no bikes, no pets (thank heavens on that one for us non-pet owners) etc. The "no no no" rule isn't limited to our neighborhood garden; many parks here have plenty of restrictions too. I get some of them but there is a point at which I maintain it is just grass and should be used...
ANYWAY...as for the week after our train trip, Ava wrapped up Reception at Abercorn, seemed to have a great year, ended with a long drawn out good-bye, as did Claire at ASL.
Hers began Tuesday with a "dress as you wish" and bring something to share party. So we sent fruit and Belle on her scooter.
I believe she had a great day and a load of sugar.
Meanwhile Claire and I had a lovely time at Hampton Court Palace...
Hampton Court Palace is a royal palace in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames in south west London; it has not been lived in by the British royal family since the 18th century. The palace is located 11.7 miles south west of Charing Cross and upstream of Central London on the River Thames. It was originally built for Cardinal Wolsey, a favourite of King Henry VIII, circa 1514; in 1529, as Wolsey fell from favour, the palace was passed to the King, who enlarged it.
The following century, William III's massive rebuilding and expansion project intended to rival Versailles was begun. Work halted in 1694, leaving the palace in two distinct contrasting architectural styles, domestic Tudor and Baroque. While the palace's styles are an accident of fate, a unity exists due to the use of pink bricks and a symmetrical, albeit vague, balancing of successive low wings.
One highlight was a tour of the kitchens wherein we were in the "servant" group (which meant we were informed of how we would have been treated as Henry VIII and his royal entourage blew through and consumed all the food and game in the area for a month before plundering on to the next royal property).
We checked out wings of the palace dedicated to various times of his life (young Henry, for example), saw re-enactments of events leading up to his sixth (and final) wedding, had lunch in the Tiltyard (originally used for jousting) eventually meandered back to retrieve Ava.
The following day she and I were off to Paddington Rec for her 2nd annual Abercorn sports day, which the prior week she informed me she DID NOT want to attend. However, this particular Wed. saw her asking me repeatedly WHEN we were going to leave for sports day. Claire opted out entirely, so I whisked her off to ASL for a one off day at sports camp.
Both kids, I think, enjoyed the day outdoors. After Ava's rousing round of games (which involved bouncing on rubber horses, relays, carrying water through obstacle courses, etc.) we picknicked with Abercorn friends. Later, along with Claire, we capped the day off with ice cream at Gelato Mia.
On Thursday, after Ava finished school early (begs the question: why bother with the 8:30 to 11:10 day...) the kids convinced me that we HAD to go to one of those filthy indoor play places.
I let myself be convinced, given how rarely I let the opportunity crop up.
This time: Bramley's. Which isn't terribly easy to get to, especially with new tube work. But make our way we did, and the kids proceeded to get their socks blackened while having a ball.
Friday found us at the zoo, after having eyes checked. I discovered the fine NHS covers eye exams for kids, and given I wore glasses/contacts forever, I think it wise to check in on the sight business.
Dr. Shuyler (a very thorough German opthomologist with the 3-D eye photo equipment that I quite like) pronounced both kids with good vision, thankfully.
The zoo was good, as usual, and we had a great day for it. A few hours later we opted for the canal boat ride back, happily drifting our way to Little Venice.
Joe and I ended the day with friends at our favorite French restaurant. Love their food. LOVE it.
And for the weekend, low key on all counts.
Then off to Centre Parcs! Apparently this is a wildly popular vacation in various parts of Europe. In the UK there are 5 CP campuses. We met up w/ friends at one near Warminster, known as Longleat.
A short train journey and we were soon checking out bikes. The place is huge, with hundreds of cabins that accomodate up to eight. And biking/walking is how everyone gets around. Our particular Centre Parcs was quite hilly so we decided it best that Ava would be in a trailer behind me.
Thus I had a mountain bike w/ 50+ pounds of Ava plus trailer plus asundry other items throughout the week. Let's just say these legs were tired -- in a good way -- at the end of the day.
Day one: we zipped our collective children -- 4 total -- off to a quick lunch then art program, some biking, settling in and dinner at Strada (Italian chain). Good food, mediocre service. Portions were great other than for the 3 girls who all ordered pasta no sauce. Somehow their pasta seemed to be a plate for one split 3 ways?
Day two found us dividing and conquering, Kathy with the big kids off to their trail ride, Ava off to a creative clown workshop. She had a lovely painted face and various clown crafts at the end of her session.
While Kathy got pampered at the spa in the afternoon, I took the kids to the mega pool complex and a couple hours later we re-surfaced, crashed at our cabin for a bit and headed off to dinner at a Spanish tapas place. Good food, better service.
Wed.: my turn for the spa. Can I just say I could live in a spa. Who couldn't?!? Peaceful, warm atmostphere, big fluffy robes, nice spa music and someone who doesn't talk while massaging well. My back LOVES every minute of it.
In the afternoon Ava had another craft program, Claire and the other kids and Kathy attempted to do laser tag but were thwarted. First, not enough participants, then rain and wasps attacked their contenders. Happily they didn't attack our group.
So we hit the playground before convincing Cafe Rouge to seat us for dinner...the pancake joint thwarted us. Hmph!
Thursday was my favorite -- we played a round of miniature golf in the morning and in the afternoon did some tree trekking. This involved climbing up a tree onto a series of rope courses which got progressively higher and more challenging. All of them wobbled; the most challenging was a single thin rope we inched across while hanging onto ropes hanging loosely from above.
At one point we had to leap between two platforms, and the grand finale was free fall jump.
Yes, we were attached to harnesses the entire time.
Definitely an adrenalin adventure. And very cool (once complete of course).
From the tree tops the kids tried their hand at roller skating, and then it was time for our last dinner, this time at Grand Cafe. Great space, food was fine, kids enjoyed the live music.
And Friday we were off after a quick dip! Not a bad way to spend the week, and as close to camping as I need to get. My how I've removed myself from those early 20's days when I camped in a tent for several days on end. Highlights there included really good red meat over the grill and beer cooled in the creek. Same creek I hauled my bar of Ivory into for the most rapid baths I've ever had. Yes, I was the only one willing to turn blue for the sake of cleanliness.
Today we enjoyed an outing to the Banqueting House, where Charles I was executed. Built in the 1600's, it's still used today for state functions. The ceiling, painted by Peter Paul Rubens, is fabulous.
From there we stopped at Claire and my favorite book store -- London's oldest.
And tomorrow we'll get ready for Berlin and the Hilton. Much as the cabin experience is a nice diversion, I'll be delighted to enjoy the city break and the hotel. It won't be long before the coyotes will be howling in Montana...
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Friday, July 9, 2010
Scotland
Happy Belated Fourth of July!!!
It’s slight anticlimactic here. Given we woke up in Edinburgh, Scotland, at the Radisson Blu and spent a few hours traveling back to London, there wasn’t much opportunity for burgers on the Barbie. Experiencing the fireworks vicariously.
Suffice it to say we had a great day, though! Anytime you can wake up in on vacation Scotland and the weather is warm, it’s a happy time.
The girls and I left London Thursday morning via the fine East Coast trainline. Shortly before 2 we were checking into our hotel (8 minutes late due to a freight train in front of us. We were reminded of this apparent infraction several times en route. Hence I’ll pass on the 8 minute debacle. X%@ freight train!
Joe rolled in shortly thereafter; actually we ran into him by the bus mecca as we were gathering our tickets for sight seeing. He was on the airport charter (doesn’t that sound more glamorous than bus), having just landed from London. Prior to that Charlotte. Long day for the J-O-E.
Once settled into the Radisson we headed for the Castle. It’s on one end of Edinbrough’s Royal Mile, the palace is at the other. Lovely walk up to the Castle as the weather was warm, breezy and sunny. (I expected chilly wind and rain; what a pleasant surprise.)
About the castle…
Edinburgh’s Castle rock has been a stronghold for over 3000 years.
Archaeologists found evidence for human occupation of the Castle Rock reaching back to 900 BC, the late Bronze Age. During the Roman occupation of Scotland in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, it was a thriving settlement. In those far-off days they called the place Din Eidyn, ‘the stronghold of Eidyn’. Then came the invading Angles, around AD 638, and ever since then the rock has been known by its English name - Edinburgh.
In the Middle Ages Edinburgh became Scotland’s chief royal castle - seat of royalty, headquarters of the sheriff of Edinburgh, military garrison and storehouse of the royal gun train, and repository of the nation’s crown jewels and state records.
Impressive buildings were constructed, including the 12th-century St Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh, David’s Tower, built for David II, Robert the Bruce’s son, in the 1370s, and the monumental great hall of James IV, opened in 1511. But the long and bitter Wars of Independence with the ‘auld enemy’, England, took their toll, and the castle endured siege upon siege; Edward I, Edward III and Henry VIII all did their utmost to batter down the walls.
In 1566 Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI in the royal palace within the castle. The tiny bed-closet still survives, a room that has a special significance for Great Britain, for in 1603 James VI became also James I of England - the ‘Union of the Crowns’. The departure of the Scottish court for London saw much of the royal ‘glitter’ go from the castle. Thereafter the stronghold became little more than a garrison fortress and arsenal. The last sovereign to sleep there was Charles I in 1633, prior to his coronation as king of Scots.
The Jacobite siege of 1745, during which Bonnie Prince Charlie held court at Holyrood Palace but could not wrest the castle from the Hanoverian King George II, proved to be the last. Since that time, the ancient fortress has continued to serve as an active army base, but has since found new roles - as a major visitor attraction, as home of the Scottish National War Memorial and two proud Scottish regiments (the Royal Scots and the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards), and as host of the world-famous Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
In 1996 the Stone of Destiny, Scotland’s coronation stone, was placed in the Crown Room alongside the nation’s Crown Jewels (the Honours of Scotland), following its return from Westminster after a space of 800 years. In 1995 the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh were inscribed as a World Heritage Site, and the castle remains its most important building.
The most laughable part of our castle tour was when one of the guards blew into the 12th century chapel with a big bright red umbrella, plonked it down on the altar and poked through a nearby closet.
Following our two-hour audio-led guide through the castle, we meandered through town, regrouped a bit and headed off to dinner. Destination: La Favorita. One of those restaurants that looked pretty close on the map…anyway, after a good long walk we found ourselves at a bustling Italian restaurant with friendly staff and AMAZING pizza. AMAZING. The kids of course signed up for pasta. We all highly recommend La Favorita. With a cab back.
Friday
I started the day out with a walk around town, managed to get lost and found. Great town to wander as the architecture is very stately, bridges and green spaces abound, lots of viewpoints of the surrounding hills and waterways.
We then hit the fine Radisson breakfast buffet, well liked by all. Hashbrowns and bacon: right up Claire’s alley. Very good sausages, I must say.
From the Rad we headed off to catch the first tour bus out to the Royal Yacht Brittania:
Plans to build a new Royal Yacht to replace Victoria and Albert III began during the reign of King George VI. But The King died in 1952, four months before the keel of the Yacht was laid. His daughter, Princess Elizabeth succeeded him to the throne and the new Queen together with her husband, Prince Philip, took a guiding hand in the design of the Yacht, personally approving plans prepared by Sir Hugh Casson, Consultant Architect, and selecting furniture, fabrics and paintings.
No matter where Britannia was in the world, however exotic or remote a location, stepping on to the deck of the Royal Yacht was always a home-coming for The Queen. Furnished to her personal taste, each room was filled with photographs of her children, treasured family heirlooms, much-loved personal possessions and gifts from across the globe. This was the ship that, even with its full complement of around 300 Royal Yachtsmen and Royal Household staff, The Queen named as the one place where she could truly relax.
AN AMBASSADOR ABROAD
The Royal Yacht Britannia has helped to make The Queen the most travelled monarch the world has ever known. Not only has The Queen and her family travelled the world on Britannia, the world - its statesmen and leaders - has visited them on board. From Sydney to Samoa, The Queen's guests have been entertained just as they would be at a royal palace on British soil.
For a state visit some five tonnes of luggage, including everything from The Queen's jewels to the famous bottles of Malvern water for Her Majesty's tea, would be brought on board. With The Queen came up to 45 members of the Royal Household, who together with Britannia's Officers and Yachtsmen ensured that each visit ran like clockwork and that no detail was overlooked.
As well as hosting royal banquets and receptions, Britannia was an ambassador for British business, promoting trade and industry around the globe. Indeed the Overseas Trade Board estimates that £3 billion has been made for the Exchequer as a result of commercial days on Britannia between 1991 and 1995.
A ROMANTIC RETREAT
For four royal couples, Britannia was to provide a honeymoon sanctuary before the onset of married life in the world's most photographed family. Princess Margaret and Anthony Armstrong-Jones were the first royal honeymooners to enjoy Britannia's inimitable star treatment when, in 1960, the Yacht took them on a 6,000 mile voyage to the Caribbean. Princess Anne and Captain Mark Phillips were next to honeymoon on Britannia cruising the West Indies in 1973. In 1981 the Prince and Princess of Wales flew to Gibraltar to meet Britannia at the start of their sixteen-day honeymoon voyage in the Mediterranean. Five years later Britannia hosted her final honeymoon for the Duke and Duchess of York who spent five days aboard the Yacht cruising around the Azores.
We had a very cool audio guide tour (is there a theme here) of the yacht, parked alongside a mall (auspicious to be nestled up next to Debenham’s). From there we trooped through said Debenham’s and back to the double decker tour bus. Great day for that (the bus) I might add – we got some sun, wind and a little Scottish humor on the tour round the city.
Back in town we opted for a quick pasta lunch at a local joint; kids got the royal pasta w/ cheese sauce treatment from the chef/owner and we then made our way to Camera Obscura, a very cool 5-level attraction.
The Camera Obscura show is a fascinating and highly amusing way to see the city and learn about its history. This unique experience has delighted and intrigued people for over 150 years. From inside this mysterious Victorian rooftop chamber, you see live moving images of Edinburgh projected onto a viewing table through a giant periscope. Pick people up on your hands, squash them to a pulp and even make the traffic climb over paper bridges.
Our friendly guide will entertain you while telling stories of Edinburgh, past and present, in an engaging and informative way. Our visitors are truly amazed at how, in this age of high technology, a simple array of mirror, lenses and daylight can produce this incredible panorama.
The kids loved the place, particularly the “photo” shadows they made on the wall. Oh and superimposing their eyes and smiles on a monkey, a baby, etc.
From Camera Obscura we were off to the other end of the Royal Mile and the Palace. Another lovely site, complete w/ audio guide.
Founded in 1498 by James IV, Holyrood Palace has witnessed some of the most dramatic episodes in Scottish History. One famous face linked to Holyrood Palace is that of Mary Queen of Scots.
Mary Queen of Scots married the Dauphin of France (heir to the throne) at 15 and became a widow at 19. She returned to Scotland and was crowned at Holyrood Palace as the Queen of Scots. Dramatic events unfolded within the walls of Holyrood including the stabbing of her Italian secretary David Rizzio.
The apartments of Mary Queen of Scots at Holyrood, including the spot where Rizzio was stabbed 57 times, are open to visitors. The Palace at Holyrood is of elegant design. In the main court there is a copy of the ornamental stone fountain in Linlithgow Palace.
Holyrood Palace has known some distressful times after the Union of England and Scotland. Reconstruction had to be carried out several times and court hadn't been held at the Palace by a monarch for some 170 years before George IV had finally done so.
Holyrood Abbey
Holyrood Abbey is now a ruin with a history that spans 800 years. The Abbey witnessed many royal events -- weddings, births, crown ceremonies and funerals. Restored in 1758, Holyrood Abbey became a ruin once more when the stone roof collapsed due to a hurricane and has been like that ever since.
Palaced out, we then meandered back to the Radisson for a quick dip and were soon off to dinner, this time at Creeler’s. Just around the corner. Phew.
Very nice, quiet candlelit space with an amazing crayfish appetizer that all four of us enjoyed. I had a delicious scallop/smoked fish entrée that makes my mouth water as I think about it.
Claire did a great job on her halibut and I think Joe and Ava enjoyed the Aberdeen angus beef. Fish and angus in Scotland. Pass on the haggis. Oh and the warm chocolate cake dessert was to die for.
Saturday
This morning we moved a little faster after another round at the Rad buffet. Off to catch a small coach to St. Andrews. And en route: a stop at the Forth bridge, a railway bridge that crosses the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh. Say that five times fast. The Firth of Forth.
Then at Falkland, a quaint little village w/ another palace that was used by the Mary Queen of Scots royalty and others. Apparently when each palace got a little too tainted by lack of hygiene the royal party just up and moved to a different palace to let the smells diffuse. Of note: the Palace has the world’s oldest tennis court still in use.
On to St. Andrews, where we had time to explore, have lunch etc. About the town:
St. Andrews is a university town and former royal burgh on the east coast of Fife in Scotland. The town is named after Saint Andrew the Apostle and has a population of 16,596 making it the fifth largest settlement in Fife.
There has been an important church in St Andrews since at least the 8th century, and a bishopric since at least the 11th century. The burgh became the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland, a position which was held until the Scottish Reformation. The famous cathedral, the largest in Scotland, now lies in ruins.
Today St Andrews is known worldwide as the "home of golf". This is in part because the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, exercises legislative authority over the game worldwide (except in the United States and Mexico), and also because the famous links (acquired by the town in 1894) is the most frequent venue for The Open Championship, the oldest of golf's four major championships.
The town is also home to the University of St Andrews, the third oldest university in the English-speaking world and one of the UK's most prestigious. The University is an integral part of the burgh, and during term time students make up approximately one third of the town's population.
We checked out the course, which was being readied for the upcoming Open and of course wandered down to the water, where Ava plucked her toes into the North Sea. We also wandered through the university, cathedral ruins and cemetery and downtown area. Lovely little city.
After hopping back on our bus (and sitting behind two very loaded Asian people who looked to be in their late 50’s/early 60’s), we motored on to a quick stop at a pagan temple. Whenever I hear the word “pagan” I think of that silly American comedy about the police guy saving the virgin from sacrifice. Name escapes me.
Anyway, this “temple” was a hole in the ground w/ a footprint nearby, overlooking a cliff and in the vicinity of a church. Apparently a common feature: Christianity plopping itself in place of paganism.
Our last stop of the day was East Neuk, a fishing village with lovely views of the sea. And reputedly the best fish and chips in the world. Given we’d had lunch we opted for Anstruther’s homemade ice cream instead, which was fabulous.
Upon return Claire and I hiked the 120 steps up to the High Street (same road as our hotel and yes, there is a more gradual way up but we were on a mission to Camera Obscura for the infamous souvenir). Ava found hers – a lovely jeweled ring – at a shop in Falkland.
With invisible ink pens in hand we were then off to the hotel for another quick swim; this time even I got in and was pleasantly surprised: it was warm. My kind of pool.
We then mobilized and headed to Bijou, a French bistro, for dinner. In another part of town, we cabbed it there and were thrilled with the food in this little restaurant, worked by a two-man band: chef and waiter.
Great food, service and prices…I had a delightful asparagus/huloumi salad, Joe had tomato chili soup, the olives alone were amazing.
The kids shared fish and chips, I had lamb chops with amazing potato wedges and Joe had a pork dish.
For dessert he and I shared a rhubarb pudding that was delicious. Kids got some more ice cream. Think of the calcium benefits.
Sunday
And this morning we rolled out slowly, rolled down to breakfast slowly and hit the pool. And then made off like bandits for our train. What a great first experience in Scotland!
It’s slight anticlimactic here. Given we woke up in Edinburgh, Scotland, at the Radisson Blu and spent a few hours traveling back to London, there wasn’t much opportunity for burgers on the Barbie. Experiencing the fireworks vicariously.
Suffice it to say we had a great day, though! Anytime you can wake up in on vacation Scotland and the weather is warm, it’s a happy time.
The girls and I left London Thursday morning via the fine East Coast trainline. Shortly before 2 we were checking into our hotel (8 minutes late due to a freight train in front of us. We were reminded of this apparent infraction several times en route. Hence I’ll pass on the 8 minute debacle. X%@ freight train!
Joe rolled in shortly thereafter; actually we ran into him by the bus mecca as we were gathering our tickets for sight seeing. He was on the airport charter (doesn’t that sound more glamorous than bus), having just landed from London. Prior to that Charlotte. Long day for the J-O-E.
Once settled into the Radisson we headed for the Castle. It’s on one end of Edinbrough’s Royal Mile, the palace is at the other. Lovely walk up to the Castle as the weather was warm, breezy and sunny. (I expected chilly wind and rain; what a pleasant surprise.)
About the castle…
Edinburgh’s Castle rock has been a stronghold for over 3000 years.
Archaeologists found evidence for human occupation of the Castle Rock reaching back to 900 BC, the late Bronze Age. During the Roman occupation of Scotland in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, it was a thriving settlement. In those far-off days they called the place Din Eidyn, ‘the stronghold of Eidyn’. Then came the invading Angles, around AD 638, and ever since then the rock has been known by its English name - Edinburgh.
In the Middle Ages Edinburgh became Scotland’s chief royal castle - seat of royalty, headquarters of the sheriff of Edinburgh, military garrison and storehouse of the royal gun train, and repository of the nation’s crown jewels and state records.
Impressive buildings were constructed, including the 12th-century St Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh, David’s Tower, built for David II, Robert the Bruce’s son, in the 1370s, and the monumental great hall of James IV, opened in 1511. But the long and bitter Wars of Independence with the ‘auld enemy’, England, took their toll, and the castle endured siege upon siege; Edward I, Edward III and Henry VIII all did their utmost to batter down the walls.
In 1566 Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI in the royal palace within the castle. The tiny bed-closet still survives, a room that has a special significance for Great Britain, for in 1603 James VI became also James I of England - the ‘Union of the Crowns’. The departure of the Scottish court for London saw much of the royal ‘glitter’ go from the castle. Thereafter the stronghold became little more than a garrison fortress and arsenal. The last sovereign to sleep there was Charles I in 1633, prior to his coronation as king of Scots.
The Jacobite siege of 1745, during which Bonnie Prince Charlie held court at Holyrood Palace but could not wrest the castle from the Hanoverian King George II, proved to be the last. Since that time, the ancient fortress has continued to serve as an active army base, but has since found new roles - as a major visitor attraction, as home of the Scottish National War Memorial and two proud Scottish regiments (the Royal Scots and the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards), and as host of the world-famous Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
In 1996 the Stone of Destiny, Scotland’s coronation stone, was placed in the Crown Room alongside the nation’s Crown Jewels (the Honours of Scotland), following its return from Westminster after a space of 800 years. In 1995 the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh were inscribed as a World Heritage Site, and the castle remains its most important building.
The most laughable part of our castle tour was when one of the guards blew into the 12th century chapel with a big bright red umbrella, plonked it down on the altar and poked through a nearby closet.
Following our two-hour audio-led guide through the castle, we meandered through town, regrouped a bit and headed off to dinner. Destination: La Favorita. One of those restaurants that looked pretty close on the map…anyway, after a good long walk we found ourselves at a bustling Italian restaurant with friendly staff and AMAZING pizza. AMAZING. The kids of course signed up for pasta. We all highly recommend La Favorita. With a cab back.
Friday
I started the day out with a walk around town, managed to get lost and found. Great town to wander as the architecture is very stately, bridges and green spaces abound, lots of viewpoints of the surrounding hills and waterways.
We then hit the fine Radisson breakfast buffet, well liked by all. Hashbrowns and bacon: right up Claire’s alley. Very good sausages, I must say.
From the Rad we headed off to catch the first tour bus out to the Royal Yacht Brittania:
Plans to build a new Royal Yacht to replace Victoria and Albert III began during the reign of King George VI. But The King died in 1952, four months before the keel of the Yacht was laid. His daughter, Princess Elizabeth succeeded him to the throne and the new Queen together with her husband, Prince Philip, took a guiding hand in the design of the Yacht, personally approving plans prepared by Sir Hugh Casson, Consultant Architect, and selecting furniture, fabrics and paintings.
No matter where Britannia was in the world, however exotic or remote a location, stepping on to the deck of the Royal Yacht was always a home-coming for The Queen. Furnished to her personal taste, each room was filled with photographs of her children, treasured family heirlooms, much-loved personal possessions and gifts from across the globe. This was the ship that, even with its full complement of around 300 Royal Yachtsmen and Royal Household staff, The Queen named as the one place where she could truly relax.
AN AMBASSADOR ABROAD
The Royal Yacht Britannia has helped to make The Queen the most travelled monarch the world has ever known. Not only has The Queen and her family travelled the world on Britannia, the world - its statesmen and leaders - has visited them on board. From Sydney to Samoa, The Queen's guests have been entertained just as they would be at a royal palace on British soil.
For a state visit some five tonnes of luggage, including everything from The Queen's jewels to the famous bottles of Malvern water for Her Majesty's tea, would be brought on board. With The Queen came up to 45 members of the Royal Household, who together with Britannia's Officers and Yachtsmen ensured that each visit ran like clockwork and that no detail was overlooked.
As well as hosting royal banquets and receptions, Britannia was an ambassador for British business, promoting trade and industry around the globe. Indeed the Overseas Trade Board estimates that £3 billion has been made for the Exchequer as a result of commercial days on Britannia between 1991 and 1995.
A ROMANTIC RETREAT
For four royal couples, Britannia was to provide a honeymoon sanctuary before the onset of married life in the world's most photographed family. Princess Margaret and Anthony Armstrong-Jones were the first royal honeymooners to enjoy Britannia's inimitable star treatment when, in 1960, the Yacht took them on a 6,000 mile voyage to the Caribbean. Princess Anne and Captain Mark Phillips were next to honeymoon on Britannia cruising the West Indies in 1973. In 1981 the Prince and Princess of Wales flew to Gibraltar to meet Britannia at the start of their sixteen-day honeymoon voyage in the Mediterranean. Five years later Britannia hosted her final honeymoon for the Duke and Duchess of York who spent five days aboard the Yacht cruising around the Azores.
We had a very cool audio guide tour (is there a theme here) of the yacht, parked alongside a mall (auspicious to be nestled up next to Debenham’s). From there we trooped through said Debenham’s and back to the double decker tour bus. Great day for that (the bus) I might add – we got some sun, wind and a little Scottish humor on the tour round the city.
Back in town we opted for a quick pasta lunch at a local joint; kids got the royal pasta w/ cheese sauce treatment from the chef/owner and we then made our way to Camera Obscura, a very cool 5-level attraction.
The Camera Obscura show is a fascinating and highly amusing way to see the city and learn about its history. This unique experience has delighted and intrigued people for over 150 years. From inside this mysterious Victorian rooftop chamber, you see live moving images of Edinburgh projected onto a viewing table through a giant periscope. Pick people up on your hands, squash them to a pulp and even make the traffic climb over paper bridges.
Our friendly guide will entertain you while telling stories of Edinburgh, past and present, in an engaging and informative way. Our visitors are truly amazed at how, in this age of high technology, a simple array of mirror, lenses and daylight can produce this incredible panorama.
The kids loved the place, particularly the “photo” shadows they made on the wall. Oh and superimposing their eyes and smiles on a monkey, a baby, etc.
From Camera Obscura we were off to the other end of the Royal Mile and the Palace. Another lovely site, complete w/ audio guide.
Founded in 1498 by James IV, Holyrood Palace has witnessed some of the most dramatic episodes in Scottish History. One famous face linked to Holyrood Palace is that of Mary Queen of Scots.
Mary Queen of Scots married the Dauphin of France (heir to the throne) at 15 and became a widow at 19. She returned to Scotland and was crowned at Holyrood Palace as the Queen of Scots. Dramatic events unfolded within the walls of Holyrood including the stabbing of her Italian secretary David Rizzio.
The apartments of Mary Queen of Scots at Holyrood, including the spot where Rizzio was stabbed 57 times, are open to visitors. The Palace at Holyrood is of elegant design. In the main court there is a copy of the ornamental stone fountain in Linlithgow Palace.
Holyrood Palace has known some distressful times after the Union of England and Scotland. Reconstruction had to be carried out several times and court hadn't been held at the Palace by a monarch for some 170 years before George IV had finally done so.
Holyrood Abbey
Holyrood Abbey is now a ruin with a history that spans 800 years. The Abbey witnessed many royal events -- weddings, births, crown ceremonies and funerals. Restored in 1758, Holyrood Abbey became a ruin once more when the stone roof collapsed due to a hurricane and has been like that ever since.
Palaced out, we then meandered back to the Radisson for a quick dip and were soon off to dinner, this time at Creeler’s. Just around the corner. Phew.
Very nice, quiet candlelit space with an amazing crayfish appetizer that all four of us enjoyed. I had a delicious scallop/smoked fish entrée that makes my mouth water as I think about it.
Claire did a great job on her halibut and I think Joe and Ava enjoyed the Aberdeen angus beef. Fish and angus in Scotland. Pass on the haggis. Oh and the warm chocolate cake dessert was to die for.
Saturday
This morning we moved a little faster after another round at the Rad buffet. Off to catch a small coach to St. Andrews. And en route: a stop at the Forth bridge, a railway bridge that crosses the Firth of Forth near Edinburgh. Say that five times fast. The Firth of Forth.
Then at Falkland, a quaint little village w/ another palace that was used by the Mary Queen of Scots royalty and others. Apparently when each palace got a little too tainted by lack of hygiene the royal party just up and moved to a different palace to let the smells diffuse. Of note: the Palace has the world’s oldest tennis court still in use.
On to St. Andrews, where we had time to explore, have lunch etc. About the town:
St. Andrews is a university town and former royal burgh on the east coast of Fife in Scotland. The town is named after Saint Andrew the Apostle and has a population of 16,596 making it the fifth largest settlement in Fife.
There has been an important church in St Andrews since at least the 8th century, and a bishopric since at least the 11th century. The burgh became the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland, a position which was held until the Scottish Reformation. The famous cathedral, the largest in Scotland, now lies in ruins.
Today St Andrews is known worldwide as the "home of golf". This is in part because the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, founded in 1754, exercises legislative authority over the game worldwide (except in the United States and Mexico), and also because the famous links (acquired by the town in 1894) is the most frequent venue for The Open Championship, the oldest of golf's four major championships.
The town is also home to the University of St Andrews, the third oldest university in the English-speaking world and one of the UK's most prestigious. The University is an integral part of the burgh, and during term time students make up approximately one third of the town's population.
We checked out the course, which was being readied for the upcoming Open and of course wandered down to the water, where Ava plucked her toes into the North Sea. We also wandered through the university, cathedral ruins and cemetery and downtown area. Lovely little city.
After hopping back on our bus (and sitting behind two very loaded Asian people who looked to be in their late 50’s/early 60’s), we motored on to a quick stop at a pagan temple. Whenever I hear the word “pagan” I think of that silly American comedy about the police guy saving the virgin from sacrifice. Name escapes me.
Anyway, this “temple” was a hole in the ground w/ a footprint nearby, overlooking a cliff and in the vicinity of a church. Apparently a common feature: Christianity plopping itself in place of paganism.
Our last stop of the day was East Neuk, a fishing village with lovely views of the sea. And reputedly the best fish and chips in the world. Given we’d had lunch we opted for Anstruther’s homemade ice cream instead, which was fabulous.
Upon return Claire and I hiked the 120 steps up to the High Street (same road as our hotel and yes, there is a more gradual way up but we were on a mission to Camera Obscura for the infamous souvenir). Ava found hers – a lovely jeweled ring – at a shop in Falkland.
With invisible ink pens in hand we were then off to the hotel for another quick swim; this time even I got in and was pleasantly surprised: it was warm. My kind of pool.
We then mobilized and headed to Bijou, a French bistro, for dinner. In another part of town, we cabbed it there and were thrilled with the food in this little restaurant, worked by a two-man band: chef and waiter.
Great food, service and prices…I had a delightful asparagus/huloumi salad, Joe had tomato chili soup, the olives alone were amazing.
The kids shared fish and chips, I had lamb chops with amazing potato wedges and Joe had a pork dish.
For dessert he and I shared a rhubarb pudding that was delicious. Kids got some more ice cream. Think of the calcium benefits.
Sunday
And this morning we rolled out slowly, rolled down to breakfast slowly and hit the pool. And then made off like bandits for our train. What a great first experience in Scotland!
June re-cap
Written June 30, 2010
Despite my best intentions, poor blog suffers…alas it probably won’t be the last time.
Since early June Claire and I have had the opportunity to view London from the infamous London Eye! We had a good day for it – warm and breezy, a few clouds, thin lines.
The best part, we both decided, was the 4-minute 4-D (yes 4-D) film clip before the ride. It sets a nice stage for the view with a seagull up close and personal.
About the Eye:
Since opening in March 2000 The Merlin Entertainments London Eye has become an iconic landmark and a symbol of modern Britain. The London Eye is the UK’s most popular paid for visitor attraction, visited by over 3.5 million people a year.
A breathtaking feat of design and engineering, passengers in the London Eye's capsules can see up to 40 kilometres in all directions.
The London Eye is the vision of David Marks and Julia Barfield, a husband and wife architect team. The wheel design was used as a metaphor for the end of the 20th century, and time turning into the new millennium. It’s the tallest cantilevered observation wheel in the world, rising high above the London skyline at 135 metres.
The London eye has 32 capsules, representing the 32 boroughs of London.
It took seven years and the skills of hundreds of people from five countries to make the London Eye a reality.
The London Eye can carry 800 passengers per revolution - equivalent to 11 London red doubled-decker buses.
Each rotation takes about 30 minutes, meaning a capsule travels at a stately 26cm per second, or 0.9km (0.6 miles) per hour - twice as fast as a tortoise sprinting; allowing passengers to step on and off without the wheel having to stop.
After our Eye experience we had a picnic lunch, hit the playground and library and retrieved Ava.
The next day wasn’t quite so lovely; I caught a short-lived but mean virus, was able to get kids off to school and then hugged the couch as fever raged. Great reminder of how nice it is to be healthy.
A few days later found me and a number of other ladies at Sofra (great middle Eastern food) for our first St Johns Wood Women’s Club board meeting. (Say that 3 times fast.) Lovely group and I look forward to being part of the board in 2010-11.
Later in the day I had the opportunity to hear Kathryn Stockett, author of The Help, speak. She came to ASL for a brief discussion of her book. Lovely woman who had 62 rejection letters before being published...how’s that for persistence. Well-timed as our book group met to discuss The Help the following day.
Following Kathryn’s brief appearance, a few of us collected at a nearby pub for pimm’s while kids enjoyed pizza and playtime at Szerina’s house. She and I then rolled into dinner at Vineria, our local Italian favorite.
Friday: more Italian with our friends the Sloans, who will soon be off to the U.S. This time we hit a lovely Italian restaurant in Primrose Hill, their neck of the woods. Great food and a great outdoor dining space.
Saturday began the First Holy Communion weekend. Claire and I went down to Marylebone – gorgeous old church – Church of Our Lady – for the Sporre kids’ First Holy Communion. Very nice ceremony. Claire and I also went to the Sporre celebration at their home afterward, first getting our nails painted in preparation for Claire’s big event! (This was her first nail salon experience, just a nice polish.)
Sunday found us at St. Thomas More, our parish, for noon Mass, wherein Claire and 14 others made their First Holy Communion. Miss Ewa, our babysitter, joined us. It was truly a lovely ceremony, with Father Gerard gearing his homily perfectly for the kids. Afterward we had a barrage of photos, treats with members of the Congregation, then were off to Cafe Med, Claire’s choice, for lunch.
June 14 was zoo day! Claire’s school wrapped up that week and celebrated end of school at the zoo. I served as chaperone so followed her and two classmates as they navigated their way via map to the exhibits each had chosen to visit. The weather was lovely, we picnicked outside, everyone seemed to enjoy the day and no children were lost!
The following day I got to hit the Italian Renaissance drawings exhibit at the British Museum w/ some of my Italian group. We enjoyed it very much, had a quick Thai lunch afterward. Wednesday was the last official school day for Claire; classes broke at noon so we met a bunch of ASL families at Violet Hill for such a nice picnic! Again the weather ended up being fantastic after a threatening morning. Eventually I peeled myself off my sunny spot on the lawn and we retrieved Ava and hit Gelato Mio per her request.
Later in the week Claire and I checked out London’s oldest book store (fabulous place that goes up and up and up – kids’ books on top floor), had a lovely Italian lunch out in Mayfair, hit Fortnum and Mason for tea gifts, picked up some other bits and had an all around lovely day out!
I also got to meet with Ava’s teacher for our final parent/teacher conference. I’m pleased to say she got great accolades, has been a good student, interacts well with others and, from Miss Waters’ perspective, seems to enjoy school very much. She’ll continue with Abercorn in the fall as a year one student (aka Kindergarten).
From the conference I went to “Tap Dogs,” a “global dance phenomenon.” Essentially 5 or 6 really fit, really talented men in casual clothes (jeans/t-shirts) and tap boots in an industrial setting dancing for 90 minutes. Loud, fun, high energy and amusing. Similar feel to “Stomp” but not quite as engaging.
To finish out the week, some friends and Claire and I went to Holland Park for playtime and a picnic. What started out as a cloudy/unpredictable day ended up being perfect! FYI…Holland Park is a district and a public park in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. It has a reputation as an affluent and fashionable area, known for attractive large Victorian townhouses, and high-class shopping and restaurants.
Over the weekend we relaxed, with me running my first 10 K in years on Sunday. It was the McMillan race, a fundraiser for cancer, held in Regent’s Park. I was thrilled w/ my time – 52 minutes. (I stink at keeping track of distances, times etc. so was pleasantly surprised at my finish.)
We also spent part of Father’s Day at Ava’s summer fair, where I was recruited to work the cake table. The kids managed to go through plenty of coins for the activities and food, and we left empty-handed from the raffle. Good afternoon activity, though.
This all brings us to last week, wherein Claire enjoyed camp at ASL. She came home tired and sun-kissed; highlights were the swim and water fight, it seems.
While she was camping and Ava was at school, I got to check out the Grace Kelly exhibit at the V&A.
Certain to be a big hit with any fashionistas or fans of the films, the wardrobe on show in the Grace Kelly exhibition London event includes over 50 of the actresses outfits, along with hats, jewellery and the original Hermes Kelly bag that has been coveted by so many for several decades. Also on show are some of her favourite designer dresses, with gowns by Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent among them.
Actress, princess, star
Renowned for her effortless elegance and starring in some of the most popular films of the 50s, Grace Kelly became Princess Grace of Monaco in 1965 when she married Prince Rainier. Alongside several garments from her films, her lace wedding gown which she wore in the civil ceremony, features in the Grace Kelly exhibition at Victoria and Albert Museum.
High Society
Famed for her role in the musical High Society in which she starred alongside Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra and Louis Armstrong, Grace Kelly was one of the most famous screen actors of her day. With a style admired and copied by many, the Grace Kelly exhibition gives you an insight into her glamorous Hollywood lifestyle with dresses from several films, posters, film clips and her Oscar statuette all on display. The dress she wore to collect her Oscar for the film Country Girl also features in the exhibition, which is certain to excite fans of her movies as well as fashion fanatics.
I also got to celebrate a friend’s retirement with a very elegant French lunch at Oslo Court restaurant. The establishment is located in a lovely mansion block in St. Johns Wood; the décor very British – think the kind of place you’d take grandmother for tea.
We had lovely food, and copious amounts of it, as tables of elegantly dressed ladies and gents came in. Mixed crowd; apparently it’s a favorite of cabbies. Who knew. Alice was well celebrated, I think.
Also on my calendar for the week – aside from the mundane – was an evening out to a chick flick…”Letters from Juliet.” Lovely views of Italy; it will make you want to go (to Italy, that is. The film is just ok, in my opinion).
Wed. evening Joe and I met a friend of his for dinner – he was in town briefly on business. Very nice meal at Café du Marche, one of our favorite restaurants.
Friday evening saw us at “Enron,” after meeting up w/ our friends Richard and Tim at Joe Allen’s for a wonderful meal. Good American food –organic mushroom burgers as opposed to greasy nachos. Very tasty, great “jazz room” feel to the place. The production was very well done and we all enjoyed it.
Saturday we caught our breath and on Sunday Joe flew out early and the kids and I enjoyed “Brazil Brazil” at the Udder Belly.
The venue: a 400 seat theatre inside an enormous purple cow, staged alongside the Thames.
The show:
Witness capoeira – the rare and beautiful Brazilian fusion of dance and martial
arts, as its masters leap, flip and spin at breathtaking speed. Feel the carnival beats and be swept away on this incredible journey to the pulsating heart of Brazilian passion. Unstoppable rhythm, indescribable feats of acrobatics and a breathless display of football magic from the world champions of the beautiful game.
Great show and nearby was a free onscreen viewing of the World Cup so lots of energy in the area. We capped our Brazil Brazil experience off with ice cream and headed home to enjoy the quiet of the garden.
Last week Claire I went to the Natural History Museum for “The Deep” exhibit and lunch. Nice outing/exhibition:
Plunge into the abyss at The Deep exhibition. Enter a weird and wonderful world, 11,000 metres down in the ocean, less explored than the moon's surface. See bizarre creatures, astonishing images and real specimens, some on display for the first time.
Tuesday we linked up w/ friends for pony day at the London Equestrian Centre. All three kids enjoyed it and we were impressed with the level of organization/instruction provided. (Poor old Westway stables just can’t get it together.)
And next adventure: Scotland!
Despite my best intentions, poor blog suffers…alas it probably won’t be the last time.
Since early June Claire and I have had the opportunity to view London from the infamous London Eye! We had a good day for it – warm and breezy, a few clouds, thin lines.
The best part, we both decided, was the 4-minute 4-D (yes 4-D) film clip before the ride. It sets a nice stage for the view with a seagull up close and personal.
About the Eye:
Since opening in March 2000 The Merlin Entertainments London Eye has become an iconic landmark and a symbol of modern Britain. The London Eye is the UK’s most popular paid for visitor attraction, visited by over 3.5 million people a year.
A breathtaking feat of design and engineering, passengers in the London Eye's capsules can see up to 40 kilometres in all directions.
The London Eye is the vision of David Marks and Julia Barfield, a husband and wife architect team. The wheel design was used as a metaphor for the end of the 20th century, and time turning into the new millennium. It’s the tallest cantilevered observation wheel in the world, rising high above the London skyline at 135 metres.
The London eye has 32 capsules, representing the 32 boroughs of London.
It took seven years and the skills of hundreds of people from five countries to make the London Eye a reality.
The London Eye can carry 800 passengers per revolution - equivalent to 11 London red doubled-decker buses.
Each rotation takes about 30 minutes, meaning a capsule travels at a stately 26cm per second, or 0.9km (0.6 miles) per hour - twice as fast as a tortoise sprinting; allowing passengers to step on and off without the wheel having to stop.
After our Eye experience we had a picnic lunch, hit the playground and library and retrieved Ava.
The next day wasn’t quite so lovely; I caught a short-lived but mean virus, was able to get kids off to school and then hugged the couch as fever raged. Great reminder of how nice it is to be healthy.
A few days later found me and a number of other ladies at Sofra (great middle Eastern food) for our first St Johns Wood Women’s Club board meeting. (Say that 3 times fast.) Lovely group and I look forward to being part of the board in 2010-11.
Later in the day I had the opportunity to hear Kathryn Stockett, author of The Help, speak. She came to ASL for a brief discussion of her book. Lovely woman who had 62 rejection letters before being published...how’s that for persistence. Well-timed as our book group met to discuss The Help the following day.
Following Kathryn’s brief appearance, a few of us collected at a nearby pub for pimm’s while kids enjoyed pizza and playtime at Szerina’s house. She and I then rolled into dinner at Vineria, our local Italian favorite.
Friday: more Italian with our friends the Sloans, who will soon be off to the U.S. This time we hit a lovely Italian restaurant in Primrose Hill, their neck of the woods. Great food and a great outdoor dining space.
Saturday began the First Holy Communion weekend. Claire and I went down to Marylebone – gorgeous old church – Church of Our Lady – for the Sporre kids’ First Holy Communion. Very nice ceremony. Claire and I also went to the Sporre celebration at their home afterward, first getting our nails painted in preparation for Claire’s big event! (This was her first nail salon experience, just a nice polish.)
Sunday found us at St. Thomas More, our parish, for noon Mass, wherein Claire and 14 others made their First Holy Communion. Miss Ewa, our babysitter, joined us. It was truly a lovely ceremony, with Father Gerard gearing his homily perfectly for the kids. Afterward we had a barrage of photos, treats with members of the Congregation, then were off to Cafe Med, Claire’s choice, for lunch.
June 14 was zoo day! Claire’s school wrapped up that week and celebrated end of school at the zoo. I served as chaperone so followed her and two classmates as they navigated their way via map to the exhibits each had chosen to visit. The weather was lovely, we picnicked outside, everyone seemed to enjoy the day and no children were lost!
The following day I got to hit the Italian Renaissance drawings exhibit at the British Museum w/ some of my Italian group. We enjoyed it very much, had a quick Thai lunch afterward. Wednesday was the last official school day for Claire; classes broke at noon so we met a bunch of ASL families at Violet Hill for such a nice picnic! Again the weather ended up being fantastic after a threatening morning. Eventually I peeled myself off my sunny spot on the lawn and we retrieved Ava and hit Gelato Mio per her request.
Later in the week Claire and I checked out London’s oldest book store (fabulous place that goes up and up and up – kids’ books on top floor), had a lovely Italian lunch out in Mayfair, hit Fortnum and Mason for tea gifts, picked up some other bits and had an all around lovely day out!
I also got to meet with Ava’s teacher for our final parent/teacher conference. I’m pleased to say she got great accolades, has been a good student, interacts well with others and, from Miss Waters’ perspective, seems to enjoy school very much. She’ll continue with Abercorn in the fall as a year one student (aka Kindergarten).
From the conference I went to “Tap Dogs,” a “global dance phenomenon.” Essentially 5 or 6 really fit, really talented men in casual clothes (jeans/t-shirts) and tap boots in an industrial setting dancing for 90 minutes. Loud, fun, high energy and amusing. Similar feel to “Stomp” but not quite as engaging.
To finish out the week, some friends and Claire and I went to Holland Park for playtime and a picnic. What started out as a cloudy/unpredictable day ended up being perfect! FYI…Holland Park is a district and a public park in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea. It has a reputation as an affluent and fashionable area, known for attractive large Victorian townhouses, and high-class shopping and restaurants.
Over the weekend we relaxed, with me running my first 10 K in years on Sunday. It was the McMillan race, a fundraiser for cancer, held in Regent’s Park. I was thrilled w/ my time – 52 minutes. (I stink at keeping track of distances, times etc. so was pleasantly surprised at my finish.)
We also spent part of Father’s Day at Ava’s summer fair, where I was recruited to work the cake table. The kids managed to go through plenty of coins for the activities and food, and we left empty-handed from the raffle. Good afternoon activity, though.
This all brings us to last week, wherein Claire enjoyed camp at ASL. She came home tired and sun-kissed; highlights were the swim and water fight, it seems.
While she was camping and Ava was at school, I got to check out the Grace Kelly exhibit at the V&A.
Certain to be a big hit with any fashionistas or fans of the films, the wardrobe on show in the Grace Kelly exhibition London event includes over 50 of the actresses outfits, along with hats, jewellery and the original Hermes Kelly bag that has been coveted by so many for several decades. Also on show are some of her favourite designer dresses, with gowns by Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent among them.
Actress, princess, star
Renowned for her effortless elegance and starring in some of the most popular films of the 50s, Grace Kelly became Princess Grace of Monaco in 1965 when she married Prince Rainier. Alongside several garments from her films, her lace wedding gown which she wore in the civil ceremony, features in the Grace Kelly exhibition at Victoria and Albert Museum.
High Society
Famed for her role in the musical High Society in which she starred alongside Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra and Louis Armstrong, Grace Kelly was one of the most famous screen actors of her day. With a style admired and copied by many, the Grace Kelly exhibition gives you an insight into her glamorous Hollywood lifestyle with dresses from several films, posters, film clips and her Oscar statuette all on display. The dress she wore to collect her Oscar for the film Country Girl also features in the exhibition, which is certain to excite fans of her movies as well as fashion fanatics.
I also got to celebrate a friend’s retirement with a very elegant French lunch at Oslo Court restaurant. The establishment is located in a lovely mansion block in St. Johns Wood; the décor very British – think the kind of place you’d take grandmother for tea.
We had lovely food, and copious amounts of it, as tables of elegantly dressed ladies and gents came in. Mixed crowd; apparently it’s a favorite of cabbies. Who knew. Alice was well celebrated, I think.
Also on my calendar for the week – aside from the mundane – was an evening out to a chick flick…”Letters from Juliet.” Lovely views of Italy; it will make you want to go (to Italy, that is. The film is just ok, in my opinion).
Wed. evening Joe and I met a friend of his for dinner – he was in town briefly on business. Very nice meal at Café du Marche, one of our favorite restaurants.
Friday evening saw us at “Enron,” after meeting up w/ our friends Richard and Tim at Joe Allen’s for a wonderful meal. Good American food –organic mushroom burgers as opposed to greasy nachos. Very tasty, great “jazz room” feel to the place. The production was very well done and we all enjoyed it.
Saturday we caught our breath and on Sunday Joe flew out early and the kids and I enjoyed “Brazil Brazil” at the Udder Belly.
The venue: a 400 seat theatre inside an enormous purple cow, staged alongside the Thames.
The show:
Witness capoeira – the rare and beautiful Brazilian fusion of dance and martial
arts, as its masters leap, flip and spin at breathtaking speed. Feel the carnival beats and be swept away on this incredible journey to the pulsating heart of Brazilian passion. Unstoppable rhythm, indescribable feats of acrobatics and a breathless display of football magic from the world champions of the beautiful game.
Great show and nearby was a free onscreen viewing of the World Cup so lots of energy in the area. We capped our Brazil Brazil experience off with ice cream and headed home to enjoy the quiet of the garden.
Last week Claire I went to the Natural History Museum for “The Deep” exhibit and lunch. Nice outing/exhibition:
Plunge into the abyss at The Deep exhibition. Enter a weird and wonderful world, 11,000 metres down in the ocean, less explored than the moon's surface. See bizarre creatures, astonishing images and real specimens, some on display for the first time.
Tuesday we linked up w/ friends for pony day at the London Equestrian Centre. All three kids enjoyed it and we were impressed with the level of organization/instruction provided. (Poor old Westway stables just can’t get it together.)
And next adventure: Scotland!
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Delayed Disney report
Written June 7, 2010 (Post delay due to distracted blog author!)
Only 1 ½ weeks of school left for Claire! I am looking forward to the change in routine. She’s off tomorrow so we’ll check out the London Eye or something else we haven’t yet experienced.
In other news, Ava and I recently spent some time at the Lady Di Memorial Playground – picnic/playtime, carousel ride to wrap up. We also caught up w/ the ladies over lunch at Café Med.
Last weekend was EuroDisney! And a great experience for all of us. To Ava it was pure magic; the princesses LIVE in that big castle. And she was a delight to watch on many of the rides, laughing out loud as she was whipped around.
Claire is every bit as into Disney too, though rides (not the biggies) hold most appeal these days.
We Eurostarred it there last Saturday, were relieved of our bags at the train station next door to the park and hit the place running! Our first item of business: the carousel, then lunch w/ the princesses in Auberge, a French restaurant. The girls were greeted by Cinderella for photo opps on the way in, then socialized w/ Snow White and her man, Belle and the no-longer-beast, a dwarf, a couple of Cinderella’s mice friends…
Lovely experience, good food and eventually we moved on to catch the parade, then “It’s a Small World,” Tea cups, roller coaster in DiscoveryLand (Ava and I cackled w/ laughter as that thing whipped us here and there, Claire wanted off and Joe felt no need to repeat the experience.)
Eventually we headed out of the park to Disney Village for dinner at Café Mickey. Again, a character experience – Smee, Chip & Dale, Minnie, Mickey, a few of their friends.
Our day wrapped up at the Sequoia hotel, a hop skip and a jump from all the Disney business.
Sunday we opted for breakfast at the park – muffins and doughnuts – then hit a bunch of rides/attractions…among them Snow White, Pinocchio, Peter Pan, Swiss Fam Robinson tree house (really cool house, I must say), Pirates of the Caribbean (not the girls’ fave), Buzz Light Year (our fave), some hot dogs for lunch (haven’t had burgers and dogs in eons and I must say they hit the spot), train ride, Disney show, the list goes on.
We took a break in the afternoon for a swim before the Buffalo Bill Wild West Show and dinner. Fun experience; kids loved the show, very similar to the Outback show we went to in Australia. Ribs were fabulous!
And Monday morning we again caught a quick breakfast en route to the park, this time at Starbucks (who knew they had pancakes). This time we did Disney Studios – a crazy roller coaster that Ava and I got whirled around on. NOT her thing – it was rather dramatic and in the dark a few times.
We also hit a Disney Clubhouse show, a magic carpet ride and various other bits of entertainment. Then it was on to Buzz Lightyear for a final ride, as well as some car driving. Ava’s a wild driver. May speak of things to come.
And then we were back on the EuroStar and headed to London, arriving home just after 9 – great 3 days! I like the way the French do Disney – happy but not Uber-happy, wine can be found in the “real” restaurants, the occasional cigarette made its appearance. Real world/Disney merges…
The hotel was a bit of a disappointment – rooms a bit long in the tooth, workout facility supposedly open from 3 to 10 p.m. but even those limited hours weren’t followed. Pool towels cost 2 euros each. We’re not recommending the Sequoia (be sure to tell your 10 friends).
Since Disney it’s been play dates, school stuff, birthday party etc. I took a knife skills class last week, something I should have done eons ago. I learned a ton (yes it’s all basic knowledge but my hacking habits really needed some tutelage). The chef gave us a rundown on knife care, types of knives, brands, uses, etc. Then we watched her demonstrate how to cut up a chicken and dozens of fruits and vegetables in various ways.
And then she turned us loose w/ knives, chopping stations, birds and produce.
Two hours of chopping later there were 3 injuries (one man’s finger, one woman’s two digits). Nothing serious, though.
We also got to enjoy the fruits of our labor (nice pun isn’t it) – gazpacho (yum!!!), roasted chicken, fruit salad. And wine. I left w/ a big 8 inch knife and have been cutting up everything in sight since, including one unlucky chicken.
Thurs. was our last cuisine club outing so I whipped up a zucchini couscous salad and headed over to join the ladies and 15 or so amazing dishes. The cornbread pudding was my favorite (could be because it had ½ cup of butter in it).
I also had a last evening outing before summer break w/ a bunch of ladies, some who will soon move on. There will be an exodus after school breaks, though it sounds like many of Claire’s friends will be around next year.
This time we ladies hit “Poem,” an Abbey Road restaurant that has a nice feel to it and cheap, easy food.
And to wrap up the week, Claire’s class presented their research projects. Her group did South America. We parents were treated to breakfast and presentations by each group – nicely done.
From there I headed off to join my Italian group for a little film Italiano.
And later in the day my dear friend Wendeline and her son came over to play.
Joe and I met up in the evening for “Sweet Charity,” which is hot on the West End right now. We enjoyed it very much, though it won’t be a repeat performance for us.
As for yesterday and today, we have really relaxed – gorgeous weather.
Only 1 ½ weeks of school left for Claire! I am looking forward to the change in routine. She’s off tomorrow so we’ll check out the London Eye or something else we haven’t yet experienced.
In other news, Ava and I recently spent some time at the Lady Di Memorial Playground – picnic/playtime, carousel ride to wrap up. We also caught up w/ the ladies over lunch at Café Med.
Last weekend was EuroDisney! And a great experience for all of us. To Ava it was pure magic; the princesses LIVE in that big castle. And she was a delight to watch on many of the rides, laughing out loud as she was whipped around.
Claire is every bit as into Disney too, though rides (not the biggies) hold most appeal these days.
We Eurostarred it there last Saturday, were relieved of our bags at the train station next door to the park and hit the place running! Our first item of business: the carousel, then lunch w/ the princesses in Auberge, a French restaurant. The girls were greeted by Cinderella for photo opps on the way in, then socialized w/ Snow White and her man, Belle and the no-longer-beast, a dwarf, a couple of Cinderella’s mice friends…
Lovely experience, good food and eventually we moved on to catch the parade, then “It’s a Small World,” Tea cups, roller coaster in DiscoveryLand (Ava and I cackled w/ laughter as that thing whipped us here and there, Claire wanted off and Joe felt no need to repeat the experience.)
Eventually we headed out of the park to Disney Village for dinner at Café Mickey. Again, a character experience – Smee, Chip & Dale, Minnie, Mickey, a few of their friends.
Our day wrapped up at the Sequoia hotel, a hop skip and a jump from all the Disney business.
Sunday we opted for breakfast at the park – muffins and doughnuts – then hit a bunch of rides/attractions…among them Snow White, Pinocchio, Peter Pan, Swiss Fam Robinson tree house (really cool house, I must say), Pirates of the Caribbean (not the girls’ fave), Buzz Light Year (our fave), some hot dogs for lunch (haven’t had burgers and dogs in eons and I must say they hit the spot), train ride, Disney show, the list goes on.
We took a break in the afternoon for a swim before the Buffalo Bill Wild West Show and dinner. Fun experience; kids loved the show, very similar to the Outback show we went to in Australia. Ribs were fabulous!
And Monday morning we again caught a quick breakfast en route to the park, this time at Starbucks (who knew they had pancakes). This time we did Disney Studios – a crazy roller coaster that Ava and I got whirled around on. NOT her thing – it was rather dramatic and in the dark a few times.
We also hit a Disney Clubhouse show, a magic carpet ride and various other bits of entertainment. Then it was on to Buzz Lightyear for a final ride, as well as some car driving. Ava’s a wild driver. May speak of things to come.
And then we were back on the EuroStar and headed to London, arriving home just after 9 – great 3 days! I like the way the French do Disney – happy but not Uber-happy, wine can be found in the “real” restaurants, the occasional cigarette made its appearance. Real world/Disney merges…
The hotel was a bit of a disappointment – rooms a bit long in the tooth, workout facility supposedly open from 3 to 10 p.m. but even those limited hours weren’t followed. Pool towels cost 2 euros each. We’re not recommending the Sequoia (be sure to tell your 10 friends).
Since Disney it’s been play dates, school stuff, birthday party etc. I took a knife skills class last week, something I should have done eons ago. I learned a ton (yes it’s all basic knowledge but my hacking habits really needed some tutelage). The chef gave us a rundown on knife care, types of knives, brands, uses, etc. Then we watched her demonstrate how to cut up a chicken and dozens of fruits and vegetables in various ways.
And then she turned us loose w/ knives, chopping stations, birds and produce.
Two hours of chopping later there were 3 injuries (one man’s finger, one woman’s two digits). Nothing serious, though.
We also got to enjoy the fruits of our labor (nice pun isn’t it) – gazpacho (yum!!!), roasted chicken, fruit salad. And wine. I left w/ a big 8 inch knife and have been cutting up everything in sight since, including one unlucky chicken.
Thurs. was our last cuisine club outing so I whipped up a zucchini couscous salad and headed over to join the ladies and 15 or so amazing dishes. The cornbread pudding was my favorite (could be because it had ½ cup of butter in it).
I also had a last evening outing before summer break w/ a bunch of ladies, some who will soon move on. There will be an exodus after school breaks, though it sounds like many of Claire’s friends will be around next year.
This time we ladies hit “Poem,” an Abbey Road restaurant that has a nice feel to it and cheap, easy food.
And to wrap up the week, Claire’s class presented their research projects. Her group did South America. We parents were treated to breakfast and presentations by each group – nicely done.
From there I headed off to join my Italian group for a little film Italiano.
And later in the day my dear friend Wendeline and her son came over to play.
Joe and I met up in the evening for “Sweet Charity,” which is hot on the West End right now. We enjoyed it very much, though it won’t be a repeat performance for us.
As for yesterday and today, we have really relaxed – gorgeous weather.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Life since Amsterdam
Life since Amsterdam has been without complaint, I must say. Claire is closing in on end of school year and First Holy Communion classes. She seems to be enjoying both.
Ava is on break this week for mid-term. I like the British school year; kids coast along, do the show and tells, work on their maths, learn their 200 words and read their weekly books, perform a couple concerts per year, swim on Mondays, wear their red uniforms, park their scooters in the overflowing scooter parking and when they’re worn out, suddenly, voila! The mid-term break.
After a few days of recovery, they’re back at it…and don’t worry, they get plenty of summer vacation – 8 weeks. Frankly I think it’s perfect.
Whereas at Claire’s school all the type A parents (that would be everyone at ASL) ponder how to make sure our children don’t fall behind during the long summer break…
Which of course is sacrosanct…3 months of long, sunny, relaxing days spent in leisure. Think pool, beach, books, games, puzzles… Norman Rockwell. Throw in some whining, fighting and boredom and that’s probably a more accurate picture.
What’s new with us aside from June rapidly approaching? I had my Cinco de Mayo event w/ the ladies…I was recruited by the host because my email has the word “Texan” in it. This engendered me with Tex Mex food expertise.
For the love of food, I rose to the occasion and made corn salsa and Mexican wedding cakes (which my children and I believe are to DIE for warm out of the oven, happily rolled in powdered sugar).
We had a rocking Cinco de Mayo with plenty of margaritas and some kind of tomato juice shooters. Bring on the homemade salsa!!!
Also that day I had the honor of participating in Ava’s school’s spring fundraiser. My contribution was to show up and contrive incorrect answers for the quiz bowl. No door prizes for our table.
What did rock was an event later that week…”Stomp.” Which I really hadn’t much interest in until recently, when two for one tickets were available. Yes, it is so worth going. Two hours of solid, unique, creative entertainment. Fun, funny, unexpected. That, preceded by excellent cheap Chinese food (when you’re the only Caucasians in the restaurant it must be good, or the shop owners have a really large family. Maybe both?) and the company of a good friend, made for a great evening out.
We ended the first week of May with our guests, Joe’s sister and husband, at Rules, London’s oldest restaurant. A lovely place with a rich sense of history and some quite proper British décor, it’s known for its “game-y” menu. I no doubt will long be remembered for eating pigeon. (Squab on some menus.) Frankly if you’re dabbling in chicken the old pigeon isn’t far off…or maybe I’ve seen the inside of one too many chicken houses?!?
Over the weekend we hit the Real Food Festival (year 2 for the kids and me). I love that stuff. I suspect everyone else was along for the ride, but they seemed willing company. We left with a few goodies and had pork belly and asparagus for dinner; can’t beat that. Claire had her first non-family sleepover and seemed to thoroughly enjoy it.
Sunday our guests took off and Ava and I prepped for “Star of the Week” (this involved gathering up photos and creating captions so Ava could be showcased as class star M-F). She shot off to school on Monday with the goods and a ready smile for class photo day.
I spent a couple hours on Monday w/ the Italian ASL ladies (mix of women who are either from Italy or interested in Italy – who isn’t?!?) at a FABULOUS pizzeria in Notting Hill. Will be dragging my family there sometime in the near future. We were well spoiled with all kinds of seafood, cheese, sliced meat appetizers. Then they brought on the big pizzas. I’m stuffed just thinking about it.
The day after that I spent a couple hours wandering around the St. Paul’s area, as I joined the last London walks tour of the school year. This one was Shakespeare/Dickens walk. Where they wrote, places cited in their works, what was happening in various parts of London when they were writing, etc. Great walk except we were all blue at the end, even the guide. Only in May in London would I need to go home and take a hot bath to warm up.
That day was Ava’s trip to the Tate Modern to look at paintings like Pollock’s, who she’s been studying. Sounds like it was a great outing – kids make better sense of modern art than adults, I think. This was one of those field trips I would have loved to go on, but alas Abercorn didn’t invite me (control the parent involvement…gotta love that).
Another recent highlight on my end: tooling around Islington w/ a friend. We had an amazing brunch. Amazing. The quiche I had was beyond belief. Great bacon, cheese and butter. Did I mention great bacon, cheese and butter…
As we’re winding things down, the St. Johns Woods Women’s Club is calling it a halt for the year, so I attended their finale luncheon recently. Freemason Arms in Hampstead. Highly recommend their duck. And brownie. Always lovely to spend time with these ladies – nice mix with diverse interests. Good thing I like them as I am moving into a position on their 2010-11 board shortly…
Joe and I enjoyed the theatre performance of “Chicago” last week, too – I liked it much better than the movie. The depth of talent here never ceases to amaze.
And to end that week, which was clearly action-packed, I had the opportunity to fit in one last “local travel” activity – a tour of Chiswick House in, you guessed it, Chiswick.
Chiswick House is a magnificent neo-Palladian villa set in beautiful historic gardens in west London.
Built by the third Earl of Burlington in 1729 to showcase his art collection and to enthral his guests, the house continues to display many spectacular works of art and provides a stunning venue for entertaining.
The gardens at Chiswick are the birthplace of the English Landscape Movement and have inspired countless gardens including New York's Central Park.
Completed by 1729, the villa, which echoes classical temple design, was never conceived as a private residence. It is instead, a bold architectural experiment by Burlington, a grand pavilion where he could display his art and book collection and entertain small groups of friends.
During his travels Burlington met the architect William Kent and invited him to collaborate on the design of the villa. No expense or creativity was spared on the interior and Kent designed the luxurious and colourful velvet rooms with red, green and blue velvet walls, that interconnect with a magnificent domed central saloon.
The day after Chiswick, a Saturday, I spent cooking and getting ready for a visit from my German friends! They were in town on a whirlwind London tour – people I hadn’t seen since our wedding. Great fun! They and their two boys came late in the afternoon; we had a lovely time catching up (in spite of language barriers). I’d picked up some Fullers brews for Udo to try (he’s a very tall, mustached German who enjoys Kolsh beer very much). I asked if he’d tried any English beers since arrival; he responded he’d tried Guiness (wrong country) and Foster’s (wrong again).
So he made his way through 3 or 4 big bottles of Fullers, various types. Without complaint!
I had to laugh as I sent them home w/ some fun little British items, one being tea (of course). When asked if they drink/like tea, Udo said they drink it when they're sick...which is generally my approach, too (other than the occasional special tea outing which involves all kinds of yummy goodies!).
This all brings us to last week…which wasn’t so frantic with last minute London outings. I did manage to power through Gladwells What the Dog Saw for a non-fiction book group I was recruited to attend by my friend Sczerina recruited. I like Gladwell, liked the group and the discussion so am now a willing non-fiction reader. Next up: The Genome (or something to that effect).
Late in the week I hit a cooking class with a friend – this time French technique. Gotta love the French; they know food. All the recipes were fabulous and appear to be very user-friendly; the food didn’t feel as heavy as lead and the instructor was fabulous. She is also I swear is no more than 25, with staff of 19 or 20, if that – how did they all get to be so poised, professional and talented at such a young age?
I’m sure I was still trying to make it look like I ironed my blouse for work when I really was far too late (or lazy or both)…
After frantically unloading my groceries that afternoon, I jetted off to a little wine bar in a pedestrian area of the West End for appetizers and wine with a friend before our theatre event, “Sister Act.” (Another of those “why not go? It’s 2 for 1 and got surprisingly good reviews.) Great fun, feel good show with wonderful music.
And the wine bar? Fabulous little find and a great evening for it – breezy and warm, windows and doors of the place open to let the outside in.
On the 21st I hit another book group – this one the monthly fiction meeting, wherein we discussed The Other Hand. Ok book. Not great. But made for a good discussion. Unfortunately our host had to run shortly before we wound up, so we closed her house down and headed to…the bar. The bar? Yes, the bar. How decadent. How fun. How…British. Pimm’s on a sunny Friday afternoon in London.
Oh I’m sure we could have done something “more productive” with our time but who wants to miss pimm’s on a sunny fri afternoon in London w/ friends?
In the evening Joe and I wandered down to Marleybone and it was such a nice evening we vetoed plans to watch Russell Crowe exude Robinhood-ness for dinner at a fabulous Turkish restaurant. We sat outdoors and ate a long, slow, tasty dinner…love all the eggplant, hummus and tziki (sp?) sauces and bread. We shared a lamb dish and an asparagus dish. Ended our meal w/ a meandering to a nearby café and an apple tart and coffee.
Over this past weekend we again had some friends over for dinner, enjoyable by all, and soaked up the sun. The backyard garden is ideal – tranquil and lovely, great place for the kids to romp and NO MAINTENANCE on our part. I do love a yard but I admit I don’t like gardening and yard work. (Well, that’s not 100 percent true; I like to plant things, but then I just really want them to be self sufficient. Independent plants; do they make them? I guess maybe the plastics dept. at Michael’s. Cacti?)
Monday Ava and I had a lovely catch up day, picnic in the garden, ice cream at the new gelato place in SJW…
And yesterday I got to go to Wimbledon! Great trip…
The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, which is responsible for staging the world's leading tennis tournament, is a private Club founded in 1868, originally as 'The All England Croquet Club'. Its first ground was situated off Worple Road, Wimbledon.
In 1875 lawn tennis, a game introduced by major Walter Clopton Wingfield a year or so earlier and originally called Sphairistike, was added to the activities of the Club.
By 1882 activity at the Club was almost exclusively confined to lawn tennis and that year the word 'croquet' was dropped from the title. However, for sentimental reasons, it was restored in 1899 and the club has been known as 'The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club' ever since.
Wimbledon is acknowledged to be the premier tennis tournament in the world and the priority of The All England Lawn Tennis Club, which hosts The Championships, is to maintain its leadership into the twenty-first century.
One highlight of our 2 hour tour: the roof was raised while we sat in Centre Court…
And of course I must note that my cioux (sp?) for the month was arrival of my updated driver's license! So when I jet off to Salt Lake this summer I will actually be able to rent a car...I did have a moment or two of wonderment as to how I was going to handle arrival in SLC w/ two kids no car...
Ava is on break this week for mid-term. I like the British school year; kids coast along, do the show and tells, work on their maths, learn their 200 words and read their weekly books, perform a couple concerts per year, swim on Mondays, wear their red uniforms, park their scooters in the overflowing scooter parking and when they’re worn out, suddenly, voila! The mid-term break.
After a few days of recovery, they’re back at it…and don’t worry, they get plenty of summer vacation – 8 weeks. Frankly I think it’s perfect.
Whereas at Claire’s school all the type A parents (that would be everyone at ASL) ponder how to make sure our children don’t fall behind during the long summer break…
Which of course is sacrosanct…3 months of long, sunny, relaxing days spent in leisure. Think pool, beach, books, games, puzzles… Norman Rockwell. Throw in some whining, fighting and boredom and that’s probably a more accurate picture.
What’s new with us aside from June rapidly approaching? I had my Cinco de Mayo event w/ the ladies…I was recruited by the host because my email has the word “Texan” in it. This engendered me with Tex Mex food expertise.
For the love of food, I rose to the occasion and made corn salsa and Mexican wedding cakes (which my children and I believe are to DIE for warm out of the oven, happily rolled in powdered sugar).
We had a rocking Cinco de Mayo with plenty of margaritas and some kind of tomato juice shooters. Bring on the homemade salsa!!!
Also that day I had the honor of participating in Ava’s school’s spring fundraiser. My contribution was to show up and contrive incorrect answers for the quiz bowl. No door prizes for our table.
What did rock was an event later that week…”Stomp.” Which I really hadn’t much interest in until recently, when two for one tickets were available. Yes, it is so worth going. Two hours of solid, unique, creative entertainment. Fun, funny, unexpected. That, preceded by excellent cheap Chinese food (when you’re the only Caucasians in the restaurant it must be good, or the shop owners have a really large family. Maybe both?) and the company of a good friend, made for a great evening out.
We ended the first week of May with our guests, Joe’s sister and husband, at Rules, London’s oldest restaurant. A lovely place with a rich sense of history and some quite proper British décor, it’s known for its “game-y” menu. I no doubt will long be remembered for eating pigeon. (Squab on some menus.) Frankly if you’re dabbling in chicken the old pigeon isn’t far off…or maybe I’ve seen the inside of one too many chicken houses?!?
Over the weekend we hit the Real Food Festival (year 2 for the kids and me). I love that stuff. I suspect everyone else was along for the ride, but they seemed willing company. We left with a few goodies and had pork belly and asparagus for dinner; can’t beat that. Claire had her first non-family sleepover and seemed to thoroughly enjoy it.
Sunday our guests took off and Ava and I prepped for “Star of the Week” (this involved gathering up photos and creating captions so Ava could be showcased as class star M-F). She shot off to school on Monday with the goods and a ready smile for class photo day.
I spent a couple hours on Monday w/ the Italian ASL ladies (mix of women who are either from Italy or interested in Italy – who isn’t?!?) at a FABULOUS pizzeria in Notting Hill. Will be dragging my family there sometime in the near future. We were well spoiled with all kinds of seafood, cheese, sliced meat appetizers. Then they brought on the big pizzas. I’m stuffed just thinking about it.
The day after that I spent a couple hours wandering around the St. Paul’s area, as I joined the last London walks tour of the school year. This one was Shakespeare/Dickens walk. Where they wrote, places cited in their works, what was happening in various parts of London when they were writing, etc. Great walk except we were all blue at the end, even the guide. Only in May in London would I need to go home and take a hot bath to warm up.
That day was Ava’s trip to the Tate Modern to look at paintings like Pollock’s, who she’s been studying. Sounds like it was a great outing – kids make better sense of modern art than adults, I think. This was one of those field trips I would have loved to go on, but alas Abercorn didn’t invite me (control the parent involvement…gotta love that).
Another recent highlight on my end: tooling around Islington w/ a friend. We had an amazing brunch. Amazing. The quiche I had was beyond belief. Great bacon, cheese and butter. Did I mention great bacon, cheese and butter…
As we’re winding things down, the St. Johns Woods Women’s Club is calling it a halt for the year, so I attended their finale luncheon recently. Freemason Arms in Hampstead. Highly recommend their duck. And brownie. Always lovely to spend time with these ladies – nice mix with diverse interests. Good thing I like them as I am moving into a position on their 2010-11 board shortly…
Joe and I enjoyed the theatre performance of “Chicago” last week, too – I liked it much better than the movie. The depth of talent here never ceases to amaze.
And to end that week, which was clearly action-packed, I had the opportunity to fit in one last “local travel” activity – a tour of Chiswick House in, you guessed it, Chiswick.
Chiswick House is a magnificent neo-Palladian villa set in beautiful historic gardens in west London.
Built by the third Earl of Burlington in 1729 to showcase his art collection and to enthral his guests, the house continues to display many spectacular works of art and provides a stunning venue for entertaining.
The gardens at Chiswick are the birthplace of the English Landscape Movement and have inspired countless gardens including New York's Central Park.
Completed by 1729, the villa, which echoes classical temple design, was never conceived as a private residence. It is instead, a bold architectural experiment by Burlington, a grand pavilion where he could display his art and book collection and entertain small groups of friends.
During his travels Burlington met the architect William Kent and invited him to collaborate on the design of the villa. No expense or creativity was spared on the interior and Kent designed the luxurious and colourful velvet rooms with red, green and blue velvet walls, that interconnect with a magnificent domed central saloon.
The day after Chiswick, a Saturday, I spent cooking and getting ready for a visit from my German friends! They were in town on a whirlwind London tour – people I hadn’t seen since our wedding. Great fun! They and their two boys came late in the afternoon; we had a lovely time catching up (in spite of language barriers). I’d picked up some Fullers brews for Udo to try (he’s a very tall, mustached German who enjoys Kolsh beer very much). I asked if he’d tried any English beers since arrival; he responded he’d tried Guiness (wrong country) and Foster’s (wrong again).
So he made his way through 3 or 4 big bottles of Fullers, various types. Without complaint!
I had to laugh as I sent them home w/ some fun little British items, one being tea (of course). When asked if they drink/like tea, Udo said they drink it when they're sick...which is generally my approach, too (other than the occasional special tea outing which involves all kinds of yummy goodies!).
This all brings us to last week…which wasn’t so frantic with last minute London outings. I did manage to power through Gladwells What the Dog Saw for a non-fiction book group I was recruited to attend by my friend Sczerina recruited. I like Gladwell, liked the group and the discussion so am now a willing non-fiction reader. Next up: The Genome (or something to that effect).
Late in the week I hit a cooking class with a friend – this time French technique. Gotta love the French; they know food. All the recipes were fabulous and appear to be very user-friendly; the food didn’t feel as heavy as lead and the instructor was fabulous. She is also I swear is no more than 25, with staff of 19 or 20, if that – how did they all get to be so poised, professional and talented at such a young age?
I’m sure I was still trying to make it look like I ironed my blouse for work when I really was far too late (or lazy or both)…
After frantically unloading my groceries that afternoon, I jetted off to a little wine bar in a pedestrian area of the West End for appetizers and wine with a friend before our theatre event, “Sister Act.” (Another of those “why not go? It’s 2 for 1 and got surprisingly good reviews.) Great fun, feel good show with wonderful music.
And the wine bar? Fabulous little find and a great evening for it – breezy and warm, windows and doors of the place open to let the outside in.
On the 21st I hit another book group – this one the monthly fiction meeting, wherein we discussed The Other Hand. Ok book. Not great. But made for a good discussion. Unfortunately our host had to run shortly before we wound up, so we closed her house down and headed to…the bar. The bar? Yes, the bar. How decadent. How fun. How…British. Pimm’s on a sunny Friday afternoon in London.
Oh I’m sure we could have done something “more productive” with our time but who wants to miss pimm’s on a sunny fri afternoon in London w/ friends?
In the evening Joe and I wandered down to Marleybone and it was such a nice evening we vetoed plans to watch Russell Crowe exude Robinhood-ness for dinner at a fabulous Turkish restaurant. We sat outdoors and ate a long, slow, tasty dinner…love all the eggplant, hummus and tziki (sp?) sauces and bread. We shared a lamb dish and an asparagus dish. Ended our meal w/ a meandering to a nearby café and an apple tart and coffee.
Over this past weekend we again had some friends over for dinner, enjoyable by all, and soaked up the sun. The backyard garden is ideal – tranquil and lovely, great place for the kids to romp and NO MAINTENANCE on our part. I do love a yard but I admit I don’t like gardening and yard work. (Well, that’s not 100 percent true; I like to plant things, but then I just really want them to be self sufficient. Independent plants; do they make them? I guess maybe the plastics dept. at Michael’s. Cacti?)
Monday Ava and I had a lovely catch up day, picnic in the garden, ice cream at the new gelato place in SJW…
And yesterday I got to go to Wimbledon! Great trip…
The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club, which is responsible for staging the world's leading tennis tournament, is a private Club founded in 1868, originally as 'The All England Croquet Club'. Its first ground was situated off Worple Road, Wimbledon.
In 1875 lawn tennis, a game introduced by major Walter Clopton Wingfield a year or so earlier and originally called Sphairistike, was added to the activities of the Club.
By 1882 activity at the Club was almost exclusively confined to lawn tennis and that year the word 'croquet' was dropped from the title. However, for sentimental reasons, it was restored in 1899 and the club has been known as 'The All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club' ever since.
Wimbledon is acknowledged to be the premier tennis tournament in the world and the priority of The All England Lawn Tennis Club, which hosts The Championships, is to maintain its leadership into the twenty-first century.
One highlight of our 2 hour tour: the roof was raised while we sat in Centre Court…
And of course I must note that my cioux (sp?) for the month was arrival of my updated driver's license! So when I jet off to Salt Lake this summer I will actually be able to rent a car...I did have a moment or two of wonderment as to how I was going to handle arrival in SLC w/ two kids no car...
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Amsterdam Rocks
I’m finally getting around to writing about our recent Amsterdam excursion, which happened over the first weekend in May.
With our Bank Holiday weekend, we laid out a plan to see the infamous tulips there…
Friday, April 30, we made our way to the train station via the Heathrow Express. Train to the airport is so much better than the cab, in my mind. After the airport process we had plenty of time for wings and potato skins at Garfinkel’s.
Upon arrival in Amsterdam we picked up the right bags, navigated the airport and popped over to the train and a packed platform. Once on board it was a short 10 minute ride to chaos – Central Station was packed with drunk 20 somethings.
Travelers like us were clearly in the minority as we fought our way out of the station. Not easy in a drunken crowd w/ kids and suitcases!
Once outside it was just as crowded and rowdy (but in a happy way) on the streets. Thankfully our friend at the fine Crowne Plaza downtown Amsterdam hadn’t lied; the hotel was just across the bridge.
Inside it was quiet, no beer smells and litter-free. (We later learned that in addition to Friday being Amsterdam’s biggest celebration of the year for the Queen’s birthday, the street cleaners had recently been on strike). So as Ava put it, the streets did look a bit India-ish. Minus the cows.
Saturday
I took an early morning walk to check out Amsterdam (over the years this has become one of my most treasured aspects of travel and/or vacations – so nice to explore a place before or as it wakes up). This morning Amsterdam was decidedly quieter than when we arrived and naturally smelled of stale beer. I did walk judiciously to avoid the vomit.
It was great to wander the canals and narrow streets, marvel at the masses of bikes here, there and everywhere and enjoy the architecture. Narrow brick houses, many w/ flowerboxes.
We breakfasted at our hotel – a buffet that was fine but didn’t measure up to the CP Gurgaon (but then will there ever be one that does…).
Our first outing in Amsterdam was to the Keukenhof, which...
• Is one of the most popular attractions in the Netherlands and has clocked up more than 44 million visitors in the last 60 years
• Is the largest bulb flower park in the world
• covers an area of 32 hectares 4.5 million tulips in 100 varieties
• is the most photographed place in the world
• has15 kilometers of footpaths
• is the largest sculpture park in the Netherlands
• has bulbs supplied by 93 Royal Warrant Holders
• boasts 7 million flower bulbs planted by hand
• has more than 2,500 trees in 87 varieties
• has a Walk of Fame with tulips named after famous people
History:
Where Keukenhof is situated now was a hunting area in the 15th century. Herbs for the kitchen of the castle of Jacoba van Beieren were also collected here; hence the name Keukenhof.
The current park was a section of the sizeable estate of Slot Teylingen, with beautiful untamed bushes and dunes. After the decease of Jacoba van Beieren, Keukenhof fell into the hands of rich merchant families. Baron and baroness Van Pallandt invited landscape architects J.D. and L.P. Zocher, designers of the Amsterdam Vondelpark, to make a design for the garden around the castle. This design, in the English landscape style, has always been the basis of Keukenhof.
On the initiative of the Lisse mayor and a number of leading flower bulb growers and exporters, an open air flower exhibition was organised at the Keukenhof in 1949. This expanded to an annually recurring event that has always drawn great numbers of visitors from all over the world.
En route to the Keukenhof we passed through Amsterdam and into the countryside, with its lovely green meadows and canals, then past acres of flowers in perfect rows. A menagerie of colors, my favorite were the red ones; they create a lovely carpet.
The park itself is beyond amazing -- incredibly displays and arrangements everywhere, with fountains, statues, bridges, waterways, paths, stones, trees…huge place with five or six greenhouses interspersed throughout. Cafes and shops, too. The greenhouse displays were very different from the outdoor flowers. In one greenhouse we could climb up to a landing to look out over the all the flowers within.
In our wanderings we ended up along some flower fields around the park – lovely view. And we were able to climb up a windmill, an incredibly scenic experience. So Dutch, right? The smells, too, were fabulous.
At one greenhouse we walked into entertainment. A band was playing with a choral group – lively tunes that captured the crowd’s attention. Their finale was a song for a bride ang groom. Pretty place, though very busy, for a wedding.
To end our morning we had a snack at a water fountain, with organ music playing off to one side and flowers surrounding us.
Upon return to Amsterdam our efforts to hit the Pancake House were thwarted so we settled on sandwiches at a nearby café, then hit the Tulip Museum, where we got a few bulbs. (Not tulip bulbs, mind you, because while they are sold around town, the good ones are only available in the fall.)
We’ll see if we can get these bulbs to do their thing; they’re supposed to be planted now for blooming in summer. We asked to be directed to 3 bulbs of the low maintenance, planted pot variety…
We then visited the Anne Frank House.
As most know, the House was used as a hiding place for a Jewish family trying to escape Nazi persecution. It’s a somber experience, naturally, but one well worth doing. We’d read several books about Anne and her family so I think the kids got something out of the visit.
Anne Frank was one of the Jewish victims of Nazi persecution during the second world war. After Nazi Germany invaded the Netherlands in 1940, increasingly severe anti-Jewish measures began here as well. The Frank family tried to escape by going into hiding. On July 1942, Otto Frank, Edith Frank-Hollander and their daughters Margot and Anne hid in this building on the Prinsengracht. They where later joined by Mr. and Mrs Daan, their sun Peter and Mr. Dussel. The building consists of two parts : a front house and a back annex. Otto Frank's business was located in the front house. The uppermost floors of the back anexe became the hiding place. After more than two years the group was betrayed and deported. Anne and Margot died of typhus in Bergen-Belsen in March 1945, only a few weeks before this concentration camp was liberated. Otto Frank, the only member of the group to survive, returned after the war.
During the hiding period Anne Frank kept a diary. In it she described daily life in the back anexe, the isolation and the fear of discovery. Anne's diary survived the war: after the betrayal it was found by Miep Gies, one of the helpers. When it was confirmed that Anne would not be returning, Miep gave the manuscripts to Otto Frank. In 1947 the first Dutch edition appeared. Since then the diary has been published in more then 55 languages.
From Anne Frank we stopped for photos at her statue nearby, then decided to relax outside for a drink as it was sunny and warm. It’s a great city to people watch – we saw more multi-tasking on bikes than imaginable. One man smoking a cigarette while riding w/ his daughter on the front of the bike. Another woman pedaling up hill in front of a car with umbrella in one hand, phone in the other.
All kinds of things here are transported by bike – rivals India in the level of use and creativity of transport mechanisms. I loved the wheelbarrow shaped basket in front for child (and object/shopping) transport.
After a short respite at the hotel we set off to find Café de Waag in Neumarkt. We had to pass through the Red Light district en route. At that time of day it was pretty tame, a few scantily dressed “ladies” hovering in windows, which of course invited questioning.
The café’s food was very good, and it’s quite the interesting building:
Originally built in 1488, this this magnificent historic building is lit by 300 candles. It was first constructed as a gate for the city's fortified walls, then transformed into a 'weigh house' where goods brought back by ships from overseas were weighed. In later years it served as a guild house for local professions and has also been a museum, fire station and more. In its most recent incarnation, the Waag houses a well-received café-restaurant as well as space (the former anatomy theater) for various types of exhibits.
Over our heads was a lovely chandelier featuring a good number of the 300 candles lighting the place up. Lovely brick interior. For food, I had the open seafood ravioli, which was excellent, kids had croquettes (fancy name for fried food) and Joe had a steak kebab that looked wonderful. The kids got chocolate fondue for dessert, Joe and I shared trio of chocolate (the mousse was decadent).
Sunday dawned rainy and a bit cooler. I walked down toward the Van Gogh museum and determined it better for us to cab it so Claire and I had a quick breakfast and headed off to Coster Diamonds, which offered a free 30 minute tour. Couldn’t say no to that. We got to see some gems being polished, the tools of the trade, examples of different cuts and grades, etc. Then of course we were shown wares upstairs but no hard sell. Next we went next door to the Diamond Museum, which is really interesting, interactive, etc. (Info on how diamonds are mined, geography, modern uses of diamonds, etc.) Copies of crowns, swords and other high profile garments featuring diamonds were on display.
Info on diamonds and Amsterdam…
Amsterdam's illustrious city of diamonds dates back from the 16th century. Fleeing persecution, many Sephardic Jews left Portugal, Spain and the Southern Netherlands during this period. Many of them ended up in Amsterdam, where they came up against the strict trade protection imposed by the guilds. Trading and cutting diamonds, however, was a free profession, and many Jews found work in this trade.
Several centuries later, mass finds in the Dutch colony of South Africa caused Amsterdam to develop into the world’s diamond epicentre. The persecution of the Jews during the Second World War was a big blow for the industry, although Amsterdam still enjoys an excellent reputation in the diamond community.
About Coster:
The Amsterdam diamond cutter Moses Elias Coster moved into factory premises at Waterlooplein in 1840, and Coster Diamonds was born. During that time, diamonds were still cut by machines literally powered by horses. Thanks to Moses' pioneering spirit, Coster Diamonds was the first diamond cutting factory in the Netherlands to introduce steam as the source of power.
In addition to being ahead of his time, Coster was also an incredible perfectionist. Only the very best was good enough, and it soon rained orders from Dutch and foreign customers. One of these represented an invitation by Queen Victoria to re-cut the Koh-i-Noor. This immense challenge established Coster as a master diamond cutter.
In 1970 the old diamond factory had to make way for the construction of the underground. Coster Diamonds moved to its current location at the Paulus Potterstraat. In three grand mansions, beautifully situated between the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, the heritage of Moses Coster is being done proud.
After perusing the museum we met Joe and Ava across the street at Van Gogh and did the audio tour. Great collection.
For lunch we stayed close to VG as it was rainy and we were scheduled to re-convene at the Diamond Mine for an afternoon tour. Lunch was at a cute little Mediterranean place that smelled great and was humming w/ locals. The French oinion soup was to die for or the combination of hunger and cold glamorized it…not sure which.
Our afternoon tour was to Voldendam and Marken:
We were driven through typical Dutch scenery and the picturesque town of Monnickendam to Volendam, a traditional Dutch fisherman's village situated on the shores of the former Zuiderzee. En route we stopped at a cheese farm to watch a Dutchman wearing brightly colored wooden shows take us through the steps of how Edam cheese is made.
In a nutshell: milk heated to a certain temperature, rennin added, churned, curds formed, liquid removed for re-use in animal feed, curds pressed and voila – cheese (after some time of course). Some cheese aged longer than others, some smoked, etc.
After the demo we were shepherded into the gift shop, where we tried 6 or 8 different types of cheese make from cow and sheep milk. Naturally no one left without a hunk of cheese or some other Dutch touristy item.
BTW our guide was the first person into the cheese place and apparently he hadn’t had lunch, as he made a beeline to the huge wheel of cheese on display and proceeded to consume several chunks…
Back on the bus, we ended up at Volendam for some time to wander around the picturesque former fishing village (fishing industry now defunct in the area since the sea was turned into a lake and the “interesting” fish no longer inhabit the lake). The weather sucked, particularly at the edge of the water – think high winds and cold rain – so we spent our 40 minute break racing from tourist shop to tourist shop and drinking hot chocolate. We then boarded our boat for a nice, though choppy, ride to Marken, an island linked to the mainland by a dike.
Upon arrival we spent a few minutes in this tiny town, which just boasts a handful of businesses, windy little streets, picturesque houses. Our bus warmly delivered us back to Amsterdam, through gorgeous, green countryside with fluffy white sheep and neatly formed ditches and dykes.
After re-grouping (aka warming up) we headed off to Café De Prins. It’s a very comfortable “brown café”, a canal house with relaxed relaxed ambience. Felt very Amsterdam with big candles, wooden tables, upbeat music, mixed crowd. We went for the fondue and pork chop, both good, kids scored on pasta.
For dessert we stopped at a bakery en route to the hotel – Claire and Ava polished off chocolate waffle and donut, Joe and I shared a big piece of mocha chocolate cake.
Monday
On our last day here it was again cold and rainy so we made off to Sarah’s Pancake House for the biggest crepes we’d ever seen. The menu options went on forever; Claire went for standard syrup, Ava nutella (hers WAS dessert), Joe and I split one w/ Calvados and apples, another with ham and cheese. All served by Sarah. No doubt these places are popular post night-out food stops.
From there we cabbed it to NEMO, a great science museum the kids thoroughly enjoyed. After two hours of huge bubble-making, getting stuck in a wind-down lift, all kinds of water experiments, genealogy displays, electricity exhibits and more, we gathered our things, make off to the train, plane and home!
With our Bank Holiday weekend, we laid out a plan to see the infamous tulips there…
Friday, April 30, we made our way to the train station via the Heathrow Express. Train to the airport is so much better than the cab, in my mind. After the airport process we had plenty of time for wings and potato skins at Garfinkel’s.
Upon arrival in Amsterdam we picked up the right bags, navigated the airport and popped over to the train and a packed platform. Once on board it was a short 10 minute ride to chaos – Central Station was packed with drunk 20 somethings.
Travelers like us were clearly in the minority as we fought our way out of the station. Not easy in a drunken crowd w/ kids and suitcases!
Once outside it was just as crowded and rowdy (but in a happy way) on the streets. Thankfully our friend at the fine Crowne Plaza downtown Amsterdam hadn’t lied; the hotel was just across the bridge.
Inside it was quiet, no beer smells and litter-free. (We later learned that in addition to Friday being Amsterdam’s biggest celebration of the year for the Queen’s birthday, the street cleaners had recently been on strike). So as Ava put it, the streets did look a bit India-ish. Minus the cows.
Saturday
I took an early morning walk to check out Amsterdam (over the years this has become one of my most treasured aspects of travel and/or vacations – so nice to explore a place before or as it wakes up). This morning Amsterdam was decidedly quieter than when we arrived and naturally smelled of stale beer. I did walk judiciously to avoid the vomit.
It was great to wander the canals and narrow streets, marvel at the masses of bikes here, there and everywhere and enjoy the architecture. Narrow brick houses, many w/ flowerboxes.
We breakfasted at our hotel – a buffet that was fine but didn’t measure up to the CP Gurgaon (but then will there ever be one that does…).
Our first outing in Amsterdam was to the Keukenhof, which...
• Is one of the most popular attractions in the Netherlands and has clocked up more than 44 million visitors in the last 60 years
• Is the largest bulb flower park in the world
• covers an area of 32 hectares 4.5 million tulips in 100 varieties
• is the most photographed place in the world
• has15 kilometers of footpaths
• is the largest sculpture park in the Netherlands
• has bulbs supplied by 93 Royal Warrant Holders
• boasts 7 million flower bulbs planted by hand
• has more than 2,500 trees in 87 varieties
• has a Walk of Fame with tulips named after famous people
History:
Where Keukenhof is situated now was a hunting area in the 15th century. Herbs for the kitchen of the castle of Jacoba van Beieren were also collected here; hence the name Keukenhof.
The current park was a section of the sizeable estate of Slot Teylingen, with beautiful untamed bushes and dunes. After the decease of Jacoba van Beieren, Keukenhof fell into the hands of rich merchant families. Baron and baroness Van Pallandt invited landscape architects J.D. and L.P. Zocher, designers of the Amsterdam Vondelpark, to make a design for the garden around the castle. This design, in the English landscape style, has always been the basis of Keukenhof.
On the initiative of the Lisse mayor and a number of leading flower bulb growers and exporters, an open air flower exhibition was organised at the Keukenhof in 1949. This expanded to an annually recurring event that has always drawn great numbers of visitors from all over the world.
En route to the Keukenhof we passed through Amsterdam and into the countryside, with its lovely green meadows and canals, then past acres of flowers in perfect rows. A menagerie of colors, my favorite were the red ones; they create a lovely carpet.
The park itself is beyond amazing -- incredibly displays and arrangements everywhere, with fountains, statues, bridges, waterways, paths, stones, trees…huge place with five or six greenhouses interspersed throughout. Cafes and shops, too. The greenhouse displays were very different from the outdoor flowers. In one greenhouse we could climb up to a landing to look out over the all the flowers within.
In our wanderings we ended up along some flower fields around the park – lovely view. And we were able to climb up a windmill, an incredibly scenic experience. So Dutch, right? The smells, too, were fabulous.
At one greenhouse we walked into entertainment. A band was playing with a choral group – lively tunes that captured the crowd’s attention. Their finale was a song for a bride ang groom. Pretty place, though very busy, for a wedding.
To end our morning we had a snack at a water fountain, with organ music playing off to one side and flowers surrounding us.
Upon return to Amsterdam our efforts to hit the Pancake House were thwarted so we settled on sandwiches at a nearby café, then hit the Tulip Museum, where we got a few bulbs. (Not tulip bulbs, mind you, because while they are sold around town, the good ones are only available in the fall.)
We’ll see if we can get these bulbs to do their thing; they’re supposed to be planted now for blooming in summer. We asked to be directed to 3 bulbs of the low maintenance, planted pot variety…
We then visited the Anne Frank House.
As most know, the House was used as a hiding place for a Jewish family trying to escape Nazi persecution. It’s a somber experience, naturally, but one well worth doing. We’d read several books about Anne and her family so I think the kids got something out of the visit.
Anne Frank was one of the Jewish victims of Nazi persecution during the second world war. After Nazi Germany invaded the Netherlands in 1940, increasingly severe anti-Jewish measures began here as well. The Frank family tried to escape by going into hiding. On July 1942, Otto Frank, Edith Frank-Hollander and their daughters Margot and Anne hid in this building on the Prinsengracht. They where later joined by Mr. and Mrs Daan, their sun Peter and Mr. Dussel. The building consists of two parts : a front house and a back annex. Otto Frank's business was located in the front house. The uppermost floors of the back anexe became the hiding place. After more than two years the group was betrayed and deported. Anne and Margot died of typhus in Bergen-Belsen in March 1945, only a few weeks before this concentration camp was liberated. Otto Frank, the only member of the group to survive, returned after the war.
During the hiding period Anne Frank kept a diary. In it she described daily life in the back anexe, the isolation and the fear of discovery. Anne's diary survived the war: after the betrayal it was found by Miep Gies, one of the helpers. When it was confirmed that Anne would not be returning, Miep gave the manuscripts to Otto Frank. In 1947 the first Dutch edition appeared. Since then the diary has been published in more then 55 languages.
From Anne Frank we stopped for photos at her statue nearby, then decided to relax outside for a drink as it was sunny and warm. It’s a great city to people watch – we saw more multi-tasking on bikes than imaginable. One man smoking a cigarette while riding w/ his daughter on the front of the bike. Another woman pedaling up hill in front of a car with umbrella in one hand, phone in the other.
All kinds of things here are transported by bike – rivals India in the level of use and creativity of transport mechanisms. I loved the wheelbarrow shaped basket in front for child (and object/shopping) transport.
After a short respite at the hotel we set off to find Café de Waag in Neumarkt. We had to pass through the Red Light district en route. At that time of day it was pretty tame, a few scantily dressed “ladies” hovering in windows, which of course invited questioning.
The café’s food was very good, and it’s quite the interesting building:
Originally built in 1488, this this magnificent historic building is lit by 300 candles. It was first constructed as a gate for the city's fortified walls, then transformed into a 'weigh house' where goods brought back by ships from overseas were weighed. In later years it served as a guild house for local professions and has also been a museum, fire station and more. In its most recent incarnation, the Waag houses a well-received café-restaurant as well as space (the former anatomy theater) for various types of exhibits.
Over our heads was a lovely chandelier featuring a good number of the 300 candles lighting the place up. Lovely brick interior. For food, I had the open seafood ravioli, which was excellent, kids had croquettes (fancy name for fried food) and Joe had a steak kebab that looked wonderful. The kids got chocolate fondue for dessert, Joe and I shared trio of chocolate (the mousse was decadent).
Sunday dawned rainy and a bit cooler. I walked down toward the Van Gogh museum and determined it better for us to cab it so Claire and I had a quick breakfast and headed off to Coster Diamonds, which offered a free 30 minute tour. Couldn’t say no to that. We got to see some gems being polished, the tools of the trade, examples of different cuts and grades, etc. Then of course we were shown wares upstairs but no hard sell. Next we went next door to the Diamond Museum, which is really interesting, interactive, etc. (Info on how diamonds are mined, geography, modern uses of diamonds, etc.) Copies of crowns, swords and other high profile garments featuring diamonds were on display.
Info on diamonds and Amsterdam…
Amsterdam's illustrious city of diamonds dates back from the 16th century. Fleeing persecution, many Sephardic Jews left Portugal, Spain and the Southern Netherlands during this period. Many of them ended up in Amsterdam, where they came up against the strict trade protection imposed by the guilds. Trading and cutting diamonds, however, was a free profession, and many Jews found work in this trade.
Several centuries later, mass finds in the Dutch colony of South Africa caused Amsterdam to develop into the world’s diamond epicentre. The persecution of the Jews during the Second World War was a big blow for the industry, although Amsterdam still enjoys an excellent reputation in the diamond community.
About Coster:
The Amsterdam diamond cutter Moses Elias Coster moved into factory premises at Waterlooplein in 1840, and Coster Diamonds was born. During that time, diamonds were still cut by machines literally powered by horses. Thanks to Moses' pioneering spirit, Coster Diamonds was the first diamond cutting factory in the Netherlands to introduce steam as the source of power.
In addition to being ahead of his time, Coster was also an incredible perfectionist. Only the very best was good enough, and it soon rained orders from Dutch and foreign customers. One of these represented an invitation by Queen Victoria to re-cut the Koh-i-Noor. This immense challenge established Coster as a master diamond cutter.
In 1970 the old diamond factory had to make way for the construction of the underground. Coster Diamonds moved to its current location at the Paulus Potterstraat. In three grand mansions, beautifully situated between the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, the heritage of Moses Coster is being done proud.
After perusing the museum we met Joe and Ava across the street at Van Gogh and did the audio tour. Great collection.
For lunch we stayed close to VG as it was rainy and we were scheduled to re-convene at the Diamond Mine for an afternoon tour. Lunch was at a cute little Mediterranean place that smelled great and was humming w/ locals. The French oinion soup was to die for or the combination of hunger and cold glamorized it…not sure which.
Our afternoon tour was to Voldendam and Marken:
We were driven through typical Dutch scenery and the picturesque town of Monnickendam to Volendam, a traditional Dutch fisherman's village situated on the shores of the former Zuiderzee. En route we stopped at a cheese farm to watch a Dutchman wearing brightly colored wooden shows take us through the steps of how Edam cheese is made.
In a nutshell: milk heated to a certain temperature, rennin added, churned, curds formed, liquid removed for re-use in animal feed, curds pressed and voila – cheese (after some time of course). Some cheese aged longer than others, some smoked, etc.
After the demo we were shepherded into the gift shop, where we tried 6 or 8 different types of cheese make from cow and sheep milk. Naturally no one left without a hunk of cheese or some other Dutch touristy item.
BTW our guide was the first person into the cheese place and apparently he hadn’t had lunch, as he made a beeline to the huge wheel of cheese on display and proceeded to consume several chunks…
Back on the bus, we ended up at Volendam for some time to wander around the picturesque former fishing village (fishing industry now defunct in the area since the sea was turned into a lake and the “interesting” fish no longer inhabit the lake). The weather sucked, particularly at the edge of the water – think high winds and cold rain – so we spent our 40 minute break racing from tourist shop to tourist shop and drinking hot chocolate. We then boarded our boat for a nice, though choppy, ride to Marken, an island linked to the mainland by a dike.
Upon arrival we spent a few minutes in this tiny town, which just boasts a handful of businesses, windy little streets, picturesque houses. Our bus warmly delivered us back to Amsterdam, through gorgeous, green countryside with fluffy white sheep and neatly formed ditches and dykes.
After re-grouping (aka warming up) we headed off to Café De Prins. It’s a very comfortable “brown café”, a canal house with relaxed relaxed ambience. Felt very Amsterdam with big candles, wooden tables, upbeat music, mixed crowd. We went for the fondue and pork chop, both good, kids scored on pasta.
For dessert we stopped at a bakery en route to the hotel – Claire and Ava polished off chocolate waffle and donut, Joe and I shared a big piece of mocha chocolate cake.
Monday
On our last day here it was again cold and rainy so we made off to Sarah’s Pancake House for the biggest crepes we’d ever seen. The menu options went on forever; Claire went for standard syrup, Ava nutella (hers WAS dessert), Joe and I split one w/ Calvados and apples, another with ham and cheese. All served by Sarah. No doubt these places are popular post night-out food stops.
From there we cabbed it to NEMO, a great science museum the kids thoroughly enjoyed. After two hours of huge bubble-making, getting stuck in a wind-down lift, all kinds of water experiments, genealogy displays, electricity exhibits and more, we gathered our things, make off to the train, plane and home!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Hair! The Market and Ballet
April 19 - 30
I'm happy to report we had SMASHING weather for a couple of weeks -- sunny and warm, lending a cheery demeanor to most everyone, it seemed. But that came to a halt as the first weekend of May arrived...here's hoping it warms up again! 50 and gray/rainy make for great sleeping/coffee drinking weather.
Post ash hold ups found us whipping through school stuff, after school activity stuff, homework stuff, the norm. Claire's international committee at school pulled me in for Tex Mex festivities, as apparently living in Texas for six years qualifies one to be an expert at whipping up Tex Mex favorites.
So I huddled with several other cook types to plan a Cinco de Mayo fest. Can't go wrong with margaritas and chips/salsa, can we?
I also enlisted the babysitter for an evening performance of "Hair," a musical I'd arranged to see w/ the ladies. Unfortunately my "date" for the evening was trapped in Cincinnati due to ash issues so Joe got to attend (not necessarily his first choice theatre entertainment). The synopsis:
'A story of love, friendship and very long hair...'
HAIR is about a group of young New Yorkers in the 60's struggling to balance their lives and loves, rejecting the lifestyles of their conservative parents and rebelling against the looming draft. As the plot develops, each tribe member tells their story although two become increasingly compelling: Berger the tribe’s ring leader and Claude its conscience.
Claude is enrapt by his new life, in awe of Berger and in love with university student Sheila. But he's faced with an unbearable decision - resist the draft as his friends have done, or compromise his pacifist principles and step up for his country...
Infectious, outlandish and exuberant, HAIR has gained iconic status since erupting onto the musical theatre scene in 1967 and is responsible for many era defining songs that have become part of the twentieth century pop landscape. And as critics and audiences have found, the messages of HAIR are as relevant today as they have ever been.
While it certainly held my attention, there just isn't enough hippie in me to say I enjoyed it that much. And I'm out of the loop on the music so there you go. I was thankful not to be in the front row as one of the hairy cast members took off his shoes and enlisted a member of the audience in a foot rub. You could say the Hair cast definitely interacts w/ the audience, at times creeping across chairs as they perform.
In other news...
Claire's student led conference took place in late April; she did a great job presenting her portfolio, which showcases her 2nd grade work up to this point. She's enjoyed the year and done well in class, we can proudly state!
On the 23rd I got to put on my foodie hat and spend a few hours touring Borough Market. About the place...
Borough Market is London’s most renowned food market; a source of exceptional British and international produce.
Since its renaissance as a retail market just over a decade ago, it has become a haven for anybody who cares about the quality and provenance of the food they eat - chefs, restaurateurs, passionate amateur cooks and people who just happen to love eating and drinking.
The market is populated by a community of remarkable individuals from all over the UK, Europe and the rest of the world.
As far back as 1014, and probably earlier, London Bridge (near where the market is located) attracted traders selling grain, fish, vegetables and livestock. In the 13th century traders were relocated to what is now Borough High Street and a market has existed there since.
In 1755 the market was closed by Parliament, but a group of Southwark residents raised £6,000 to buy a patch of land known locally as The Triangle, once the churchyard of St Margaret’s, and reopened the market. The Triangle, where you’ll find Northfield Farm and Furness Fish and Game, is still at the heart of the market today.
The market continues to feed this core community and has grown to include about 130 individual stalls.
With a group of fellow foodies of all ages and from various parts of the world, I followed our guide, Celia, around the market -- first starting with "elevenses" at Roast, a well-known, well-loved restaurant in the middle of Borough Market. Elevenses is a small, late morning meal. Ours featured a few British specialties (rarebit, sausages, carrot cake). All delicious!
From Roast we wandered the market, stopping at various stalls -- mostly favorites of Celia for various reasons -- great produce or purveyors of exotic foods. She pointed out vegetables and fruits currently in season, gave tips for preparing them, etc. (Celia is a chef, cookbook author and has her own garden plot.) She has developed relationships with various vendors at the market, so we got to do some tasting at some of the stalls -- the scallops, harvested south of us, were incredibly tasty, as were the roasted lamb/beef and pork at another stall. We got to hold an ostrich egg and learn about ostrich meat (which led me to pick up ostrich burgers for the weekend -- tasty and quite like beef).
Other stops were to taste olive oils and balsamic vinegars, chorizo and Spanish cheese and olives, tomato relishes, flan...
We took a break mid-way through and tasted two wines, white and red, with nibbles in a lovely, rustic old cellar converted into a tasting room for a little wine shop.
When we parted company I picked up a few fresh items and retrieved the kids -- great day out!
The next day we took the kids to see "The Ballet Shoes," a children's ballet performance. It was very well done; the talent is amazing, particularly considering the ages of the performers. The kids seemd to enjoy it, and Claire read the book prior to attending so she had a very good understanding of the story.
To kick off the following week, I went along on a tour of Leighton House with our fearless leader, Alice Leader (no pun intended).
About Leighton House:
The house was the former home and studio of the leading Victorian artist, Frederic, Lord Leighton (1830-1896). Built to designs by George Aitchison, it was extended and embellished over a period of 30 years to create a private palace of art.
The Arab Hall is the centerpiece of the house. Designed to display Leighton's priceless collection of over a thousand Islamic tiles, mostly brought back from Damascus in Syria, the interior evokes a compelling vision of the Orient.
The opulence continues through the other richly decorated interiors, with gilded ceilings and walls lined with peacock blue tiles by the ceramic artist William De Morgan. On the first floor is Leighton's grand painting studio with its great north window, dome and apse.
It's a lovely place, the Arab Hall particularly auspicious with brightly colored tiles and extraordinary detail.
For lunch we ate at the Orangerie at Kensington Palace, a lovely lunch in a lovely room with a lovely view! Then I stopped at Whole Foods, which is always a fun experience though spendy.
And to top off the week, my Italian friends and I hit a very odd movie -- "I am love." I'm not sure any of us really enjoyed the movie BUT we did enjoy our time together and it did hold our attention (well other than Bernadette's 10 minute snooze mid way through).
I also got in a lunch with the Abercorn ladies at a WONDERFUL Turkish restaurant in Marleybone. Superb food, supposedly very authentic (can't say I would know) and very reasonable. Nice combination, I'd say...
I'm happy to report we had SMASHING weather for a couple of weeks -- sunny and warm, lending a cheery demeanor to most everyone, it seemed. But that came to a halt as the first weekend of May arrived...here's hoping it warms up again! 50 and gray/rainy make for great sleeping/coffee drinking weather.
Post ash hold ups found us whipping through school stuff, after school activity stuff, homework stuff, the norm. Claire's international committee at school pulled me in for Tex Mex festivities, as apparently living in Texas for six years qualifies one to be an expert at whipping up Tex Mex favorites.
So I huddled with several other cook types to plan a Cinco de Mayo fest. Can't go wrong with margaritas and chips/salsa, can we?
I also enlisted the babysitter for an evening performance of "Hair," a musical I'd arranged to see w/ the ladies. Unfortunately my "date" for the evening was trapped in Cincinnati due to ash issues so Joe got to attend (not necessarily his first choice theatre entertainment). The synopsis:
'A story of love, friendship and very long hair...'
HAIR is about a group of young New Yorkers in the 60's struggling to balance their lives and loves, rejecting the lifestyles of their conservative parents and rebelling against the looming draft. As the plot develops, each tribe member tells their story although two become increasingly compelling: Berger the tribe’s ring leader and Claude its conscience.
Claude is enrapt by his new life, in awe of Berger and in love with university student Sheila. But he's faced with an unbearable decision - resist the draft as his friends have done, or compromise his pacifist principles and step up for his country...
Infectious, outlandish and exuberant, HAIR has gained iconic status since erupting onto the musical theatre scene in 1967 and is responsible for many era defining songs that have become part of the twentieth century pop landscape. And as critics and audiences have found, the messages of HAIR are as relevant today as they have ever been.
While it certainly held my attention, there just isn't enough hippie in me to say I enjoyed it that much. And I'm out of the loop on the music so there you go. I was thankful not to be in the front row as one of the hairy cast members took off his shoes and enlisted a member of the audience in a foot rub. You could say the Hair cast definitely interacts w/ the audience, at times creeping across chairs as they perform.
In other news...
Claire's student led conference took place in late April; she did a great job presenting her portfolio, which showcases her 2nd grade work up to this point. She's enjoyed the year and done well in class, we can proudly state!
On the 23rd I got to put on my foodie hat and spend a few hours touring Borough Market. About the place...
Borough Market is London’s most renowned food market; a source of exceptional British and international produce.
Since its renaissance as a retail market just over a decade ago, it has become a haven for anybody who cares about the quality and provenance of the food they eat - chefs, restaurateurs, passionate amateur cooks and people who just happen to love eating and drinking.
The market is populated by a community of remarkable individuals from all over the UK, Europe and the rest of the world.
As far back as 1014, and probably earlier, London Bridge (near where the market is located) attracted traders selling grain, fish, vegetables and livestock. In the 13th century traders were relocated to what is now Borough High Street and a market has existed there since.
In 1755 the market was closed by Parliament, but a group of Southwark residents raised £6,000 to buy a patch of land known locally as The Triangle, once the churchyard of St Margaret’s, and reopened the market. The Triangle, where you’ll find Northfield Farm and Furness Fish and Game, is still at the heart of the market today.
The market continues to feed this core community and has grown to include about 130 individual stalls.
With a group of fellow foodies of all ages and from various parts of the world, I followed our guide, Celia, around the market -- first starting with "elevenses" at Roast, a well-known, well-loved restaurant in the middle of Borough Market. Elevenses is a small, late morning meal. Ours featured a few British specialties (rarebit, sausages, carrot cake). All delicious!
From Roast we wandered the market, stopping at various stalls -- mostly favorites of Celia for various reasons -- great produce or purveyors of exotic foods. She pointed out vegetables and fruits currently in season, gave tips for preparing them, etc. (Celia is a chef, cookbook author and has her own garden plot.) She has developed relationships with various vendors at the market, so we got to do some tasting at some of the stalls -- the scallops, harvested south of us, were incredibly tasty, as were the roasted lamb/beef and pork at another stall. We got to hold an ostrich egg and learn about ostrich meat (which led me to pick up ostrich burgers for the weekend -- tasty and quite like beef).
Other stops were to taste olive oils and balsamic vinegars, chorizo and Spanish cheese and olives, tomato relishes, flan...
We took a break mid-way through and tasted two wines, white and red, with nibbles in a lovely, rustic old cellar converted into a tasting room for a little wine shop.
When we parted company I picked up a few fresh items and retrieved the kids -- great day out!
The next day we took the kids to see "The Ballet Shoes," a children's ballet performance. It was very well done; the talent is amazing, particularly considering the ages of the performers. The kids seemd to enjoy it, and Claire read the book prior to attending so she had a very good understanding of the story.
To kick off the following week, I went along on a tour of Leighton House with our fearless leader, Alice Leader (no pun intended).
About Leighton House:
The house was the former home and studio of the leading Victorian artist, Frederic, Lord Leighton (1830-1896). Built to designs by George Aitchison, it was extended and embellished over a period of 30 years to create a private palace of art.
The Arab Hall is the centerpiece of the house. Designed to display Leighton's priceless collection of over a thousand Islamic tiles, mostly brought back from Damascus in Syria, the interior evokes a compelling vision of the Orient.
The opulence continues through the other richly decorated interiors, with gilded ceilings and walls lined with peacock blue tiles by the ceramic artist William De Morgan. On the first floor is Leighton's grand painting studio with its great north window, dome and apse.
It's a lovely place, the Arab Hall particularly auspicious with brightly colored tiles and extraordinary detail.
For lunch we ate at the Orangerie at Kensington Palace, a lovely lunch in a lovely room with a lovely view! Then I stopped at Whole Foods, which is always a fun experience though spendy.
And to top off the week, my Italian friends and I hit a very odd movie -- "I am love." I'm not sure any of us really enjoyed the movie BUT we did enjoy our time together and it did hold our attention (well other than Bernadette's 10 minute snooze mid way through).
I also got in a lunch with the Abercorn ladies at a WONDERFUL Turkish restaurant in Marleybone. Superb food, supposedly very authentic (can't say I would know) and very reasonable. Nice combination, I'd say...
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Since Austria...
After screaming in on the Saturday before Easter (this time with the right baggage) we opted for the more reliable Gatwick Express to take us home.
Once there we switched gears, left kids with pizza and sitter and headed off to the pub for dinner with our visitors. After a lovely meal and good company, we enjoyed the ambience and an after dinner drink at the Warrington.
Easter Sunday donned with sleepy kids (and then of course the Easter bunny had visited, hid eggs, etc.) so our Mass plans moved to noon and we arrived 10 minutes prior to beat the rush for a pew. No need to worry; the place was practically empty.
As we waited we felt a presence close behind and low and behold, it was Father hitting me up to read. Apparently his Easter Mass Lector had just emailed to cancel. (Who cancels on Easter without finding a backup? It’s only the most important day of the year in the Catholic church…).
So there you have it: my lecturing opportunity came through in a big way. I was the first and second reader. And as I glanced up from my spot on stage I did notice the pews filled up, so the level of apathy isn’t entire.
From Mass we hit the Clifton Pub. Doesn’t that sound great…a belt of religion followed by a pint. And one wonders why more people aren’t Catholic.
There we met Mike, Liz and boys and had a lovely traditional English Sunday roast for our Easter meal. We were offered a choice of roast beef or lamb with roasted or mashed potatoes, veggies, etc. All good. And we shared a couple desserts – sticky toffee pudding, banofee pie.
Then we wandered to the famed Beatles crossing to snap photos of the Wilcoxes. Actually this was our first time contributing to the traffic backlog; generally we just breeze through the crossing and no doubt spoil plenty of photos and video footage en route.
Easter Monday found the Wilcoxes en route to Paris while we headed down to the Quilt Exhibit at the V&A. It’s a great exhibit; we all did the audio guides and learned about quilting throughout the ages – its artistic applications, contributions to the home and economy, décor, status, craftsmanship, preservation and more.
Then we mosied over to Covent Garden area for Tex Mex at Wahaca. First time we’ve had decent Tex Mex cuisine in nearly two years, I think. It was cheap, cheerful and kid-friendly, too.
The rest of the week both kids were off school so we plugged in some Swiss Cottage swim lessons (I’m determined to work that credit down!!!).
And Claire did pony day on a lovely, warm day; she was one of a very small group so got to be more hands on, which she loved. She’s been sporting a wealth of information about the various horses, their personalities, habits, roles, etc. at Westway Stables.
We ended the day dyeing eggs. (This we would have done earlier but I had a difficult time finding non-brown eggs. Eventually Ava and I landed some pastel-colored eggs; these are produced by some rather artistic chickens, I guess. They worked quite well for the dyeing, actually resulting in more vivid hues.)
On Wed. we headed to Islington, a new part of town for us, where we attended Little Angels Theatre, a very intimate venue with wooden benches. We got to pick our own seats so found ourselves in the front row. The kids loved it – a production called “Who’s been sitting in my chair?” based on Goldilocks. One very talented actor did all the speaking parts, effects and puppets, using a very cleverly designed stage to make seasonal and scene changes throughout. The level of talent for such a wide array of theatre is astounding in this town.
For lunch we hit Giraffe, which is great fun for the kids, then to the library for a load of books as the day had become rainy, good reading weather.
Thursday our friends returned from what sounds like a great visit to Paris. We made our way to swimming and then McDonalds for the promised once-in-a-blue-moon fried lunch (bribes for swimming!). We took our food to go after listening to a nasty attack on the staff by two young men with their pants hanging down practically to their knees. (Who deemed that style attractive and when is it going to die?)
The two threw racial slurs at the staff, then trash. I’ve yet to figure out why no one called the cops. Given we’d already committed to the food we moved as far away from these weirdos, grabbed our bag and ran.
Our afternoon entertainment was “Legally Blonde” – the kids’ 2nd West End production. And great fun. The two dogs featured in the production were highlights.
After scoring stuffed souvenirs priced entirely too high we made our way home for a farewell dinner w/ the Wilcoxes.
On Friday they departed early, the kids and I had a relaxed lunch and park time with friends. Nice to soak in the sun.
Joe and I ended the week at the National Portrait Gallery with the Irving Penn (an American photographer well known for his portraiture) photography exhibit. We then caught a very informal bite at the Stockpot, a local Soho joint that’s very cheap and cheerful, and clearly popular among the non-heterosexual crowd. We followed that with dessert at another similarly diverse spot.
And on Saturday, which boasted spectacular weather, we took a picnic to Primrose Hill and perched on the hillside with numerous other Londoners. We then hit a very busy playground and stopped at St. Johns Wood High Street’s new gelato shop for free ice cream!
Sunday I read at Mass…common theme of late. Then onto Marleybone market with Ava for lots of spring produce, some free flowers (always good to shop with the 5-year-old crowd) and plenty of samples.
Monday it was back to school/work for Joe and Claire. Ava and I got to play a bit more as Abercorn kicked back into gear on Thurs. On our list: bike and shoe shopping, carpet cleaning. The latter was critical given Ava and her friend Ava managed to leave hand prints on the stairs after a recent paint fest. NICE.
I went to “The Real Van Gogh: The Artist and His Letters” exhibit with a friend last week. It was fabulous, with “over 35 original letters, rarely exhibited to the public due to their fragility, on display; together with around 65 paintings and 30 drawings that express the principal themes to be found within the correspondence.”
We were there forever given it was a mob scene (pretty much the same as when Claire’s class went, though they had 30 minutes and we had three hours).
On Friday I hosted my book group, wherein several of us discussed Sylvia Plath’s The Bell Jar. And over the weekend my dear friend Patty visited so we got to catch up. We spent some time wandering Greenwich on Saturday, and on Sunday we all trooped up Tower Bridge for great views of London and insight on the building of the bridge, its use, how it works, etc.
This week ash continues to keep planes out of the air, which has us wondering about guests and our upcoming plans to visit Amsterdam…
Once there we switched gears, left kids with pizza and sitter and headed off to the pub for dinner with our visitors. After a lovely meal and good company, we enjoyed the ambience and an after dinner drink at the Warrington.
Easter Sunday donned with sleepy kids (and then of course the Easter bunny had visited, hid eggs, etc.) so our Mass plans moved to noon and we arrived 10 minutes prior to beat the rush for a pew. No need to worry; the place was practically empty.
As we waited we felt a presence close behind and low and behold, it was Father hitting me up to read. Apparently his Easter Mass Lector had just emailed to cancel. (Who cancels on Easter without finding a backup? It’s only the most important day of the year in the Catholic church…).
So there you have it: my lecturing opportunity came through in a big way. I was the first and second reader. And as I glanced up from my spot on stage I did notice the pews filled up, so the level of apathy isn’t entire.
From Mass we hit the Clifton Pub. Doesn’t that sound great…a belt of religion followed by a pint. And one wonders why more people aren’t Catholic.
There we met Mike, Liz and boys and had a lovely traditional English Sunday roast for our Easter meal. We were offered a choice of roast beef or lamb with roasted or mashed potatoes, veggies, etc. All good. And we shared a couple desserts – sticky toffee pudding, banofee pie.
Then we wandered to the famed Beatles crossing to snap photos of the Wilcoxes. Actually this was our first time contributing to the traffic backlog; generally we just breeze through the crossing and no doubt spoil plenty of photos and video footage en route.
Easter Monday found the Wilcoxes en route to Paris while we headed down to the Quilt Exhibit at the V&A. It’s a great exhibit; we all did the audio guides and learned about quilting throughout the ages – its artistic applications, contributions to the home and economy, décor, status, craftsmanship, preservation and more.
Then we mosied over to Covent Garden area for Tex Mex at Wahaca. First time we’ve had decent Tex Mex cuisine in nearly two years, I think. It was cheap, cheerful and kid-friendly, too.
The rest of the week both kids were off school so we plugged in some Swiss Cottage swim lessons (I’m determined to work that credit down!!!).
And Claire did pony day on a lovely, warm day; she was one of a very small group so got to be more hands on, which she loved. She’s been sporting a wealth of information about the various horses, their personalities, habits, roles, etc. at Westway Stables.
We ended the day dyeing eggs. (This we would have done earlier but I had a difficult time finding non-brown eggs. Eventually Ava and I landed some pastel-colored eggs; these are produced by some rather artistic chickens, I guess. They worked quite well for the dyeing, actually resulting in more vivid hues.)
On Wed. we headed to Islington, a new part of town for us, where we attended Little Angels Theatre, a very intimate venue with wooden benches. We got to pick our own seats so found ourselves in the front row. The kids loved it – a production called “Who’s been sitting in my chair?” based on Goldilocks. One very talented actor did all the speaking parts, effects and puppets, using a very cleverly designed stage to make seasonal and scene changes throughout. The level of talent for such a wide array of theatre is astounding in this town.
For lunch we hit Giraffe, which is great fun for the kids, then to the library for a load of books as the day had become rainy, good reading weather.
Thursday our friends returned from what sounds like a great visit to Paris. We made our way to swimming and then McDonalds for the promised once-in-a-blue-moon fried lunch (bribes for swimming!). We took our food to go after listening to a nasty attack on the staff by two young men with their pants hanging down practically to their knees. (Who deemed that style attractive and when is it going to die?)
The two threw racial slurs at the staff, then trash. I’ve yet to figure out why no one called the cops. Given we’d already committed to the food we moved as far away from these weirdos, grabbed our bag and ran.
Our afternoon entertainment was “Legally Blonde” – the kids’ 2nd West End production. And great fun. The two dogs featured in the production were highlights.
After scoring stuffed souvenirs priced entirely too high we made our way home for a farewell dinner w/ the Wilcoxes.
On Friday they departed early, the kids and I had a relaxed lunch and park time with friends. Nice to soak in the sun.
Joe and I ended the week at the National Portrait Gallery with the Irving Penn (an American photographer well known for his portraiture) photography exhibit. We then caught a very informal bite at the Stockpot, a local Soho joint that’s very cheap and cheerful, and clearly popular among the non-heterosexual crowd. We followed that with dessert at another similarly diverse spot.
And on Saturday, which boasted spectacular weather, we took a picnic to Primrose Hill and perched on the hillside with numerous other Londoners. We then hit a very busy playground and stopped at St. Johns Wood High Street’s new gelato shop for free ice cream!
Sunday I read at Mass…common theme of late. Then onto Marleybone market with Ava for lots of spring produce, some free flowers (always good to shop with the 5-year-old crowd) and plenty of samples.
Monday it was back to school/work for Joe and Claire. Ava and I got to play a bit more as Abercorn kicked back into gear on Thurs. On our list: bike and shoe shopping, carpet cleaning. The latter was critical given Ava and her friend Ava managed to leave hand prints on the stairs after a recent paint fest. NICE.
I went to “The Real Van Gogh: The Artist and His Letters” exhibit with a friend last week. It was fabulous, with “over 35 original letters, rarely exhibited to the public due to their fragility, on display; together with around 65 paintings and 30 drawings that express the principal themes to be found within the correspondence.”
We were there forever given it was a mob scene (pretty much the same as when Claire’s class went, though they had 30 minutes and we had three hours).
On Friday I hosted my book group, wherein several of us discussed Sylvia Plath’s The Bell Jar. And over the weekend my dear friend Patty visited so we got to catch up. We spent some time wandering Greenwich on Saturday, and on Sunday we all trooped up Tower Bridge for great views of London and insight on the building of the bridge, its use, how it works, etc.
This week ash continues to keep planes out of the air, which has us wondering about guests and our upcoming plans to visit Amsterdam…
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Austria!
Happy Belated Easter, all! We hope everyone had a nice holiday. Plenty of chocolate, I trust.
All is well in our corner of the world. We thoroughly enjoyed Austria, though day 1 I told Joe it was trying to kick us in the tush. Well maybe I used a little stronger language…
First, we learned our Lipizzaner performance had been cancelled due to continued cough issue. BUMMER.
Then we left our hacienda. We were picked up by cab because we thought that would be easiest/most expeditious. In future, Gatwick Express all the way… Cab rolled right along until we got a few miles from Gatwick and then it took 20 minutes to go one mile. Ugh.
So we got to the airport 1 hour 20 minutes before flight. Still ok if you hustle, keeping in mind customs and security. BUT there are north and south terminals at this particular aeropuerto and we had no instruction for either SO rolled the dice and tried north. Wrong. This entailed getting back in cab and driving to south terminal (big airport).
You people who make fun of small airports like Bozeman’s would be the first ones begging for something you could traverse on foot quickly in such circumstances.
Once in the correct terminal the line to EasyJet was ominous. BUT thankfully we did have speedy boarding so were able to skip the line, hit security and eat. Then I noticed the sign that said it takes 20 minutes to get to gate 30, which was our gate. At that time the departure list said our flight was boarding.
So we hustled it to 30. Thankfully the 20 minute walk was clearly estimated for someone out of shape and heavily burdened with luggage sans wheels. We had no problem getting there in a timely fashion and on board to find seats. EJ does the old Southwest maneuver: make a mad dash for a seat and it’s yours.
A short while later we were in Salzburg, grabbed our bags, which came off together and were on our way.
Once at Hotel Auersperg we putzed around a bit, decided to unpack before heading into the city centre and low and behold found a lock on one of our suitcases…Not our suitcase.
So Joe headed off with the twin of our bag back to the airport; the kids and I unpacked the other bag (which had all of Joe’s clothes; kids and I were of course packed in the one MIA).
And yes, kids’ stuff and my stuff fits in one big bag and Joe’s stuff, well, it fits in another big bag. What is wrong with this picture? Now I can see you all imaging we three wearing same clothes day in, day out. While I do pack light – sometimes to a fault – we do all have clean clothes to last and given we were doing one week in Austria, we were in good shape. That is, had we had bag in hand.
From our room the kids and I wandered down through Salzburg, over the bridge, through the old sections of town and to our restaurant. It was carved into the side of a mountain, as are many of Salzburg’s buildings. Very cool cave interior, very cosy and warm with wooden tables, candles and the like.
A short while later Joe showed up with the right suitcase in tow. Let’s just say the other one was chauffeured courtesy of Weber family to its rightful owner in some city miles from Salzburg.
Our waitress didn’t speak much English; we have a deficit of German. Therein were we surprised when the kids’ food showed up. We expected salami, cheese and ham (all served separately). Instead we got a pizza with said ingredients. Kids adjusted.
I ordered the goulash, one of the area’s specialties (very tasty). Joe had the best dish – stuffed pork dumplings.
First day in Austria: no disasters but definitely bemusing.
Second day in Austria: nothing like the first.
After a buffet breakfast ranging from bacon, croissants and freshly squeezed carrot/apple juice (that’s way too healthy for me) to pickles, olives and several different types of REALLY good cheese, rolls, salami and prosciutto, plus cereals, fruits etc., we were picked up and delivered to a tour bus for our “Sound of Music” tour. Having just watched the movie, we were all prepared to burst into song and climb the hills. Well ok, listen to some music on the bus and get out periodically for photos.
Some of our stops included the gazebo (which Hollywood made look much bigger), the Von Trapp houses (the real one and the Hollywood one), the train station where which they departed (as opposed to the Alps they hiked over), the church where they got married, the Abbey where Maria lived (different building than the site of the wedding), the lake the kids fell into…
It was a gorgeous day, we got to see great views and sites around Salzburg and in the countryside and we sampled the famed Sacher Torte.
Afterward we wandered through the Mirabelle gardens (see below)
The Mirabelle Palace was built by Prince Arbishop Wolf Dietrich in 1606 for his mistress, Salome Alt, and her children. It was converted to the baroque style in two stages. First, in 1689 a new palace and garden were designed by Fischer von Erlach. Second, Lukas von Hildebrandt remodelled the garden between 1721 and 1727. The central axis of the garden is aligned on Hohensalzburg, the castle on the other side of the River Salzach. It has a central fountain, an outdoor theatre and a marvellous sculpture collection. Mirabelle has a key position in the town, near the river and between the old town and the commercial new town. It is also, as Jellicoe observed, draws upon the surrounding landscape. It is a beautiful place, always full of people and more redolent of the atmosphere of a Court Garden than most of old Europe's extant Hofgartens. Mirabelle Palace is used as a registry office and elegantly dressed couples contribute to its courtly air. Mirabelle Garden and the summerhouse at Hellbrunn were used in the film of the Sound of Music about the von Trapp family.
We then hopped on a different bus for a tour of one of the area’s Salt Mines. This one was a working mine in Bavaria, Germany, so we crossed the border and enjoyed the scenery en route. We soon found ourselves donning navy blue overalls with stripes that light up under fluorescents.
Next, we piled on trains with numerous other tourists, going down dark tunnels into a mountain.
After disembarking we went through various parts of the mine, listening to presentations about salt mining. At two junctures along the way we got to slide down wooden slides – were schooled to lift our feet and let go, and that we’d automatically come to a halt at the bottom. Sure enough, we slid rapidly down and came to an abrupt end. Rivals the Disney experience (well the slide part anyway).
At another juncture we crossed a pool of water on a boat. And to return back up to catch the train we took one of those caged mine elevators. In between we got to see a laser light show depicting salt crystals in layers of sediment, various pieces of equipment (modern and retired) used for different aspects of the process, demonstrations of how much salt an average adult consumes in a year, etc. We even got to taste a bit of VERY salty water. Which Ava loved. Each of us left with a tiny shaker of salt for a souvenir.
From our mine we were retrieved by bus and taken to a little Bavarian mountain town for a little free time. The kids found some painted wooden eggs for souvenirs and we wandered around the shops, took photos, etc. Spectacular setting: mountains all the way around, one of which plays host to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus).
About the Eagle’s Nest – it’s a chalet-style building which was an extension of the Obersalzberg complex built by the Nazis in the mountains near Berchtesgaden. The Kehlsteinhaus was an official 50th birthday present for Adolf Hitler. Nicknamed Eagle's Nest by a French diplomat, it was meant to be a retreat for Hitler and a place for him to entertain visiting dignitaries.
The Kehlsteinhaus is situated on a ridge at the top of the Kehlstein mountain (6,017 ft), reached by a spectacular 4 mile long and 13 ft wide road that cost 30 million Reichsmarks to build (about 150 million euros in 2007, adjusted in line with inflation). It includes five tunnels but only one hairpin turn and climbs 2,300 ft.
The last 406 ft up to the Kehlsteinhaus are reached by an elevator bored straight down through the mountain and linked via a tunnel through the granite below that is 124 m (406 ft) long. The inside of the large elevator car is surfaced with polished brass, Venetian mirrors and green leather (the elevator is still used daily). Construction of the mountain elevator system cost the lives of 12 construction workers. The main reception room is dominated by a fireplace of red Italian marble, presented by Mussolini.
A significant event held at the Kehlsteinhaus was the wedding reception that followed the marriage of Eva Braun's sister Gretl to Hermann Fegelein on June 3, 1944. The event was filmed and amongst others Martin Bormann can be seen there. The building is also often called "Hitler's Tea House", but this is a misnomer. Hitler did not treat the Kehlsteinhaus as a tea house, and the location he visited daily for afternoon tea was actually the Mooslahnerkopf Teehaus.
Although the site is on the same mountain as the Berghof, Hitler rarely visited the property. It has been suggested he only visited the Kehlsteinhaus around 10 times, and most times for no more than 30 minutes. However he did receive the departing French ambassador to Germany André François-Poncet there on October 18, 1938. Perhaps because of the lack of close association with Hitler, the property was saved from demolition at the end of the war.
The Kehlsteinhaus was subsequently used by the Allies as a military command post until 1960, when it was handed back to the State of Bavaria.
After leaving our bus behind we regrouped at the hotel, then sought out the Stiftskeller St. Peter, another restaurant carved into the mountainside. Great food, lovely setting – beautiful, ornate rooms where frequently Mozart concerts are performed for diners.
I had the spring menu – lovely goat cheese appetizer, soup with stuffed beef pasta (probably my favorite course), pork and melted chocolate torte for dessert.
Tuesday
Today we had another delicious breakfast; I’m all about the cheese. I’d also taken my second early morning walk – lovely city to wander early in the day, while Joe and kids snoozed.
Yesterday I’d gone up to the Fortress overlooking the city, today up to a Nunnery on another hill. (Salzburg’s history is steeped in Catholicism, including some powerful and big spending Archbishop whose mistress had more than a dozen children. Ah there’s no end to scandals in the Catholic church is there? I can say that; I am one. A Catholic, that is. Maybe scandalous, too.)
After breakfast we were picked up for a tour around town – this time in a van. Our driver gave us a good historical sense of the area, we drove by all the key historical sites, particularly those related to Mozart and were left at the bottom of the funicular.
Before going up in it (elevator type thing on tracks that would take us quickly up to the fortress without any complaints from 5-year-old legs) we stopped for a pretzel (in Austria a pretzel is like a loaf of bread w/ salt on it – fabulous) and checked out the Dom:
This site has hosted a Christian church since 774. The original was replaced with a late-Romanesque structure built in 1181-1200.
The Romanesque cathedral burned down in 1598 and Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich took advantage of (some would say caused) the destruction to demolish the rest and make plans for a grand new cathedral to reaffirm Salzburg's commitment to the Catholic cause in the face of the Reformation.
However, Dietrich's overthrow prevented the completion of this project. The present cathedral was commissioned by Archbishop Markus Sittikus Count Hohenems and designed by the Italian architect Santino Solari. It was consecrated in 1628 by Archbishop Paris Count Lodron.
Then up to the Fortress, where we checked out some great views, the marionette museum and state rooms. Huge museum with tons of treasures:
Salzburg Fortress (Hohensalzburg) is the icon of Salzburg and the largest fortress of its kind in Europe to have survived intact in its entirety.
Hohensalzburg was built by Archbishop Gebhard in 1077. Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519) presided over an extensive expansion of the fortress. Its greatest attractions for today's visitor include the medieval Princes' Chambers and the Fortress Museum.
The origins of the building, now almost a thousand years old, can be traced back to the time of the Investiture Controversy, the dispute between the kings and the Papacy over the investiture of bishops. In the course of the conflict, Archbishop Gebhard von Salzburg, who sided with the Papacy, ordered the construction of the defensive installations of Hohensalzburg, Hohenwerfen, and Friesach in his territory. This first stage in the development of Hohensalzburg Fortress came to an end under Gebhard's successor, Archbishop Conrad I (1160-47).
For centuries, the archiepiscopal fortress retained its role as a refuge for the ecclesiastical rulers of the diocese of Salzburg. For example, the archbishops withdrew to the fortress when Salzburg and its lands were caught up in the upheaval of the Hungarian War and the Peasants' War. It was during this period that the main building was extended and the arsenal and granary created. The fortress owes its modern appearance to Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519), who had it extended and commissioned the lavish decoration of its interior. Ornamental paintings and skillfully crafted Gothic carvings can be admired in the Golden Hall and the Golden Room. Fifty-eight inscriptions and the famous coat of arms are additional reminders of his rule. Since the days of Leonhard von Keutschach, the lion that is the symbol of the fortress has held a beetroot in its paws. The last significant structural modification to the fortress was the construction of the impressive Khuenburg bastion.
Throughout its long history, Hohensalzburg has never been captured or successfully besieged by its enemies. The only damage suffered by the fortress was relatively insignificant and occurred during the Peasants' War. Malevolent peasants managed to gain control of a cannon and fired straight at their overlord's residence from the Kapitelplatz square in the city below. To this day, the dent left in a thick column of Untersberg marble bears witness to the only direct threat to leave its mark on the building.
During periods when there was no direct military threat to the city, it was used as a barracks and prison.
After heading back down the mountain we stopped at an outdoor café to soak up the sunshine and share a wienerschnitzel. I then peeled off to hit the museum of modern art, kids and Joe sought out some ice cream.
We met up a bit later to attend a marionette performance of “The Magic Flute.” Too bad I didn’t realize until well into it that the story was relayed in the abridged version on a screen to the side…(I thought Joe had a twitch which made him keep turning to the right).
Before dinner we collapsed at the hotel for a bit, then hit Alt Salzburg for our last evening meal in the city. A very traditional, quaint little restaurant in the heart of Old Town where we had great service and very good food. Again, weinerschnitzel for Claire. I had stuffed nudeln (sp?) with crayfish – very nice dish, Joe had duck. We all left happy and made our exit as a big group of what looked like concert attendees made their way in.
Wed.
This a.m. I got up for a final walk around the city, stopped in at the Church of St. Sebastian. Lovely. Behind it is the cemetery where Mozart and others of fame are buries so I walked through. It’s also lovely, packed with markers, family plots, statues and memorials.
And then we left for the train station, which is in a state of repair. After discerning we were waiting for the wrong train to Vienna (the slow one) we hightailed it to a different bin and a couple hours later arrived in the big city.
Our Turkish cab driver had only good things to say about Vienna, gave us an overview on the sites around our hotel and told us which cafes to hit.
After settling in we made our way to the center of town and took a carriage ride. Nice, relaxing, if a bit bumpy way to see many of Vienna’s gorgeous buildings and streets. From there we hit St. Stephansdom, checked it out then climbed the 340 or so steps up the North Tower.
The motivation for climbing all of these European towers, domes and monuments is of course due to the great views, appreciation for the work that went into some of these historic buildings, etc. And frankly because we can. Let’s face it; if we end up back here in our 70’s we’ll be doing bus tours and climbing a max of 30 stairs while moaning about the impact on our knees.
About the church:
The Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral) in Vienna has survived through many wars and has become a symbol of Vienna's freedom. The Gothic cathedral was first built in 1147 AD and its most recognizable characteristic, the diamond-patterned tile roof, was added in 1952.
The first church to occupy the site of St. Stephan's Cathedral was a Romanesque church, which was replaced by a larger Romanesque basilica in 1147. A major fire in 1258 destroyed the basilica and construction on the present Gothic cathedral began in the early 14th century.
The cathedral suffered damage during the Turkish seige of 1683 and again in the closing days of World War II, when fire from street fighting leapt to the rooftop.
The cathedral was reopened in 1948; the roof was repaired and decorated with ceramic tiles donated by Viennese citizens in 1950.
Among the important events that have occurred at St. Stephen's are Mozart's wedding in 1782 and his funeral in December 1791.
The tower we climbed rises to 450 feet and is named Alter Steffl, "Old Steve." Originally built between 1359 and 1433, it was reconstructed after severe war damage.
The Dom’s Pummerin bell is one of the largest bells in the world, cast from a cannon captured from the Turks in 1683. It rings out over the city on New Year's Eve.
The "O5" carved into the stone outside the cathedral's massive front door has important historical significance. The 5 stands for the fifth letter of the alphabet, E. When added to the O it makes OE, the abbreviation for Österreich (Austria). It was a covert sign of resistance to the Nazi annexation of Austria.
After our climb we all needed sustenance so we found the acclaimed Café Central and had coffee/drinks and desserts – apple strudel for me, chocolate cake for the kids, some decadent chocolate drink for Joe.
Sugared up we wandered a bit, then had dinner at the Palmenhaus, a wonderful restaurant in an arboretum. Gorgeous, lofty place with lovely palms here and there – very good food, too – we shared the Palmenhaus starter (big capers, prosciutto, cheese and salad) – lovely olive tapenade. And we also shared the mixed seafood grill. Fabulous fish and grilled veggies.
Thursday
This morning I took a walk around Vienna, found myself on the city’s major shopping street. A little window shopping and some great smells wafting from all the bakeries.
Back at the K&K Maria Teresa we started with another breakfast of plenty; Claire was happy: crispy bacon, croissants and nutella. Ava’s again gone in for the sliced peppers, salami and pickles.
Lovely blue sky day and we were off by bus for a tour around the city, then to the Schunbrunn Palace (summer palace of the Hapsburgs). It’s immense and painted in the color of royalty – gold.
Our guide took us through several of the rooms, gave us some great sound bites, we all oohed and ahed over the fancy furnishings, décor, etc.
In our free time we wandered the market out front of the palace and the gardens in back. Back on the bus we got some insight on life in Austria today…kids go to school until noon, lunch at home, university is paid for, as is healthcare. Retirement at 65 and 50 for women and men, respectively, paid at 80 percent of salary. We’ll move here when we’re decrepit. Of course none of this is free – taxes up to 50%.
After being dropped off at the Opera House, center city, we walked to Nashtmarkt for lunch – a long strip of market shops (lots of food) and restaurants. With the nice weather we opted for a German sidewalk café and had bratwursts and more schnitzel. Then we wandered through more market stuff and hopped a cab down to the Danube. No boat cruises just yet so we headed to nearby Prater Park for the infamous Giant Ferris Wheel.
Of course that was our first order of business – it was built in the late 1800’s so feels a bit rickety but that didn’t cause us much pause. Our rectangular “car” had a wooden plank seat in the middle, which we shared with several other Ferris wheel friends. Great views and the perfect, clear, sunny afternoon for it.
We then wandered further into the amusement park, found the ponies and stopped for rides. Then onto the train for a spin through the place – it’s HUGE. And aren’t all amusement parks the same world-over? Tacky w/ cheap plastic lights, bored attendants, deep fried food and a wide mix of visitors. I think the kids are much more excited about the thrill rides these days…bummer their parents' stomachs aren’t quite up for the excitement.
From the park we hit the Vienna underground – quick and easy to use – and collapsed before dinner. I sought out the hotel sauna. It was fiercely hot; after turning it down and (cardinal sin) letting some air out it felt less like a roasting oven.
For dinner we headed to Wiener Rathauskeller, which I guess I assumed to be a very casual publike restaurant near the hotel. Low and behold we found ourselved in the basement of the very gorgeous, stately Rauthaus and the restaurant was beautifully decorated, very elegant and ornate.
We had a lovely meal. I had the very traditional Austrian noodles and cabbage (which sounds non-descript but done by the Wiener Rathauskeller chef was amazing), Joe had steak, kids: wienerschnitzel.
Friday
This morning was chillier; thank heavens for really good coffee. Off we went to watch the Lippizaners train. We didn’t hear any of them cough though…
We watched two different groups of riders work their gorgeous, graceful white horses through various gaits and dance moves. Set to music, it was lovely and very relaxing and in a very auspicious setting – amazing chandeliers, ceilings, paintings, etc. decorate the walls of the arena.
Naturally we didn’t leave without a souvenir – a Lippizaner toy set for Claire, purse for Ava.
We then perused the Treasury – amazing amount of Hapsburg and Church wealth on display – crowns, jewelry, coats of arms, robes, decorative swords, various religious symbols inlaid with jewels.
Then we were on to the zoo! Back to Shonbrunn Palace, the time via tube, we stopped by for a bit at Ankar, Austria’s most prevalent bakery. Good sandwiches.
A few hours of admiring hippos, tigers, lions, aviaries and being grossed out by rats and insects later, we found the elephants (which true, are hard to miss) and bathroom. Thus marked our fill of the zoo. Back in our neighborhood we opted for ice cream and hot chocolate. Then we collaped before our last dinner in Austria, this time at Glacis Beisl, just a block from our hotel.
It was another good food stop. The sign outside was a bit dubious but after going downstairs and entering into a lovely area packed with outdoor tables, I was encouraged. The inside was lovely – lots of skilights and windows, lovely wooden tables and candlelight. And we had great service. I tried the goat terrine, which Ava liked. The calvados apples and berry sauce accompanying it were particularly good.
My main was a peirogi dish – very tasty. Joe had kid goat after learning the lamb included organ meats. And kids…well schnitzel all the way.
Saturday
On our last day in Austria we hurried over to the Zoom Children’s Museum for a 90 minute kids’ art workshop, where each child donned blue or red overalls and made projects in a big studio. Ava made a cool basket among other things, Claire a cool collage, also among other things. A lovely woman served as their interpreter/instructor.
And then to the airport, EasyJet and home via Gatwick Express!!! Much more predictable return.
At home we caught up w/ our guests and their adventures, then we adults headed off to dinner at a traditional English pub and dining room (literally the place is called The Dining Rooms) while the 4 kids had pizza with our babysitter.
All is well in our corner of the world. We thoroughly enjoyed Austria, though day 1 I told Joe it was trying to kick us in the tush. Well maybe I used a little stronger language…
First, we learned our Lipizzaner performance had been cancelled due to continued cough issue. BUMMER.
Then we left our hacienda. We were picked up by cab because we thought that would be easiest/most expeditious. In future, Gatwick Express all the way… Cab rolled right along until we got a few miles from Gatwick and then it took 20 minutes to go one mile. Ugh.
So we got to the airport 1 hour 20 minutes before flight. Still ok if you hustle, keeping in mind customs and security. BUT there are north and south terminals at this particular aeropuerto and we had no instruction for either SO rolled the dice and tried north. Wrong. This entailed getting back in cab and driving to south terminal (big airport).
You people who make fun of small airports like Bozeman’s would be the first ones begging for something you could traverse on foot quickly in such circumstances.
Once in the correct terminal the line to EasyJet was ominous. BUT thankfully we did have speedy boarding so were able to skip the line, hit security and eat. Then I noticed the sign that said it takes 20 minutes to get to gate 30, which was our gate. At that time the departure list said our flight was boarding.
So we hustled it to 30. Thankfully the 20 minute walk was clearly estimated for someone out of shape and heavily burdened with luggage sans wheels. We had no problem getting there in a timely fashion and on board to find seats. EJ does the old Southwest maneuver: make a mad dash for a seat and it’s yours.
A short while later we were in Salzburg, grabbed our bags, which came off together and were on our way.
Once at Hotel Auersperg we putzed around a bit, decided to unpack before heading into the city centre and low and behold found a lock on one of our suitcases…Not our suitcase.
So Joe headed off with the twin of our bag back to the airport; the kids and I unpacked the other bag (which had all of Joe’s clothes; kids and I were of course packed in the one MIA).
And yes, kids’ stuff and my stuff fits in one big bag and Joe’s stuff, well, it fits in another big bag. What is wrong with this picture? Now I can see you all imaging we three wearing same clothes day in, day out. While I do pack light – sometimes to a fault – we do all have clean clothes to last and given we were doing one week in Austria, we were in good shape. That is, had we had bag in hand.
From our room the kids and I wandered down through Salzburg, over the bridge, through the old sections of town and to our restaurant. It was carved into the side of a mountain, as are many of Salzburg’s buildings. Very cool cave interior, very cosy and warm with wooden tables, candles and the like.
A short while later Joe showed up with the right suitcase in tow. Let’s just say the other one was chauffeured courtesy of Weber family to its rightful owner in some city miles from Salzburg.
Our waitress didn’t speak much English; we have a deficit of German. Therein were we surprised when the kids’ food showed up. We expected salami, cheese and ham (all served separately). Instead we got a pizza with said ingredients. Kids adjusted.
I ordered the goulash, one of the area’s specialties (very tasty). Joe had the best dish – stuffed pork dumplings.
First day in Austria: no disasters but definitely bemusing.
Second day in Austria: nothing like the first.
After a buffet breakfast ranging from bacon, croissants and freshly squeezed carrot/apple juice (that’s way too healthy for me) to pickles, olives and several different types of REALLY good cheese, rolls, salami and prosciutto, plus cereals, fruits etc., we were picked up and delivered to a tour bus for our “Sound of Music” tour. Having just watched the movie, we were all prepared to burst into song and climb the hills. Well ok, listen to some music on the bus and get out periodically for photos.
Some of our stops included the gazebo (which Hollywood made look much bigger), the Von Trapp houses (the real one and the Hollywood one), the train station where which they departed (as opposed to the Alps they hiked over), the church where they got married, the Abbey where Maria lived (different building than the site of the wedding), the lake the kids fell into…
It was a gorgeous day, we got to see great views and sites around Salzburg and in the countryside and we sampled the famed Sacher Torte.
Afterward we wandered through the Mirabelle gardens (see below)
The Mirabelle Palace was built by Prince Arbishop Wolf Dietrich in 1606 for his mistress, Salome Alt, and her children. It was converted to the baroque style in two stages. First, in 1689 a new palace and garden were designed by Fischer von Erlach. Second, Lukas von Hildebrandt remodelled the garden between 1721 and 1727. The central axis of the garden is aligned on Hohensalzburg, the castle on the other side of the River Salzach. It has a central fountain, an outdoor theatre and a marvellous sculpture collection. Mirabelle has a key position in the town, near the river and between the old town and the commercial new town. It is also, as Jellicoe observed, draws upon the surrounding landscape. It is a beautiful place, always full of people and more redolent of the atmosphere of a Court Garden than most of old Europe's extant Hofgartens. Mirabelle Palace is used as a registry office and elegantly dressed couples contribute to its courtly air. Mirabelle Garden and the summerhouse at Hellbrunn were used in the film of the Sound of Music about the von Trapp family.
We then hopped on a different bus for a tour of one of the area’s Salt Mines. This one was a working mine in Bavaria, Germany, so we crossed the border and enjoyed the scenery en route. We soon found ourselves donning navy blue overalls with stripes that light up under fluorescents.
Next, we piled on trains with numerous other tourists, going down dark tunnels into a mountain.
After disembarking we went through various parts of the mine, listening to presentations about salt mining. At two junctures along the way we got to slide down wooden slides – were schooled to lift our feet and let go, and that we’d automatically come to a halt at the bottom. Sure enough, we slid rapidly down and came to an abrupt end. Rivals the Disney experience (well the slide part anyway).
At another juncture we crossed a pool of water on a boat. And to return back up to catch the train we took one of those caged mine elevators. In between we got to see a laser light show depicting salt crystals in layers of sediment, various pieces of equipment (modern and retired) used for different aspects of the process, demonstrations of how much salt an average adult consumes in a year, etc. We even got to taste a bit of VERY salty water. Which Ava loved. Each of us left with a tiny shaker of salt for a souvenir.
From our mine we were retrieved by bus and taken to a little Bavarian mountain town for a little free time. The kids found some painted wooden eggs for souvenirs and we wandered around the shops, took photos, etc. Spectacular setting: mountains all the way around, one of which plays host to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest (Kehlsteinhaus).
About the Eagle’s Nest – it’s a chalet-style building which was an extension of the Obersalzberg complex built by the Nazis in the mountains near Berchtesgaden. The Kehlsteinhaus was an official 50th birthday present for Adolf Hitler. Nicknamed Eagle's Nest by a French diplomat, it was meant to be a retreat for Hitler and a place for him to entertain visiting dignitaries.
The Kehlsteinhaus is situated on a ridge at the top of the Kehlstein mountain (6,017 ft), reached by a spectacular 4 mile long and 13 ft wide road that cost 30 million Reichsmarks to build (about 150 million euros in 2007, adjusted in line with inflation). It includes five tunnels but only one hairpin turn and climbs 2,300 ft.
The last 406 ft up to the Kehlsteinhaus are reached by an elevator bored straight down through the mountain and linked via a tunnel through the granite below that is 124 m (406 ft) long. The inside of the large elevator car is surfaced with polished brass, Venetian mirrors and green leather (the elevator is still used daily). Construction of the mountain elevator system cost the lives of 12 construction workers. The main reception room is dominated by a fireplace of red Italian marble, presented by Mussolini.
A significant event held at the Kehlsteinhaus was the wedding reception that followed the marriage of Eva Braun's sister Gretl to Hermann Fegelein on June 3, 1944. The event was filmed and amongst others Martin Bormann can be seen there. The building is also often called "Hitler's Tea House", but this is a misnomer. Hitler did not treat the Kehlsteinhaus as a tea house, and the location he visited daily for afternoon tea was actually the Mooslahnerkopf Teehaus.
Although the site is on the same mountain as the Berghof, Hitler rarely visited the property. It has been suggested he only visited the Kehlsteinhaus around 10 times, and most times for no more than 30 minutes. However he did receive the departing French ambassador to Germany André François-Poncet there on October 18, 1938. Perhaps because of the lack of close association with Hitler, the property was saved from demolition at the end of the war.
The Kehlsteinhaus was subsequently used by the Allies as a military command post until 1960, when it was handed back to the State of Bavaria.
After leaving our bus behind we regrouped at the hotel, then sought out the Stiftskeller St. Peter, another restaurant carved into the mountainside. Great food, lovely setting – beautiful, ornate rooms where frequently Mozart concerts are performed for diners.
I had the spring menu – lovely goat cheese appetizer, soup with stuffed beef pasta (probably my favorite course), pork and melted chocolate torte for dessert.
Tuesday
Today we had another delicious breakfast; I’m all about the cheese. I’d also taken my second early morning walk – lovely city to wander early in the day, while Joe and kids snoozed.
Yesterday I’d gone up to the Fortress overlooking the city, today up to a Nunnery on another hill. (Salzburg’s history is steeped in Catholicism, including some powerful and big spending Archbishop whose mistress had more than a dozen children. Ah there’s no end to scandals in the Catholic church is there? I can say that; I am one. A Catholic, that is. Maybe scandalous, too.)
After breakfast we were picked up for a tour around town – this time in a van. Our driver gave us a good historical sense of the area, we drove by all the key historical sites, particularly those related to Mozart and were left at the bottom of the funicular.
Before going up in it (elevator type thing on tracks that would take us quickly up to the fortress without any complaints from 5-year-old legs) we stopped for a pretzel (in Austria a pretzel is like a loaf of bread w/ salt on it – fabulous) and checked out the Dom:
This site has hosted a Christian church since 774. The original was replaced with a late-Romanesque structure built in 1181-1200.
The Romanesque cathedral burned down in 1598 and Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich took advantage of (some would say caused) the destruction to demolish the rest and make plans for a grand new cathedral to reaffirm Salzburg's commitment to the Catholic cause in the face of the Reformation.
However, Dietrich's overthrow prevented the completion of this project. The present cathedral was commissioned by Archbishop Markus Sittikus Count Hohenems and designed by the Italian architect Santino Solari. It was consecrated in 1628 by Archbishop Paris Count Lodron.
Then up to the Fortress, where we checked out some great views, the marionette museum and state rooms. Huge museum with tons of treasures:
Salzburg Fortress (Hohensalzburg) is the icon of Salzburg and the largest fortress of its kind in Europe to have survived intact in its entirety.
Hohensalzburg was built by Archbishop Gebhard in 1077. Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519) presided over an extensive expansion of the fortress. Its greatest attractions for today's visitor include the medieval Princes' Chambers and the Fortress Museum.
The origins of the building, now almost a thousand years old, can be traced back to the time of the Investiture Controversy, the dispute between the kings and the Papacy over the investiture of bishops. In the course of the conflict, Archbishop Gebhard von Salzburg, who sided with the Papacy, ordered the construction of the defensive installations of Hohensalzburg, Hohenwerfen, and Friesach in his territory. This first stage in the development of Hohensalzburg Fortress came to an end under Gebhard's successor, Archbishop Conrad I (1160-47).
For centuries, the archiepiscopal fortress retained its role as a refuge for the ecclesiastical rulers of the diocese of Salzburg. For example, the archbishops withdrew to the fortress when Salzburg and its lands were caught up in the upheaval of the Hungarian War and the Peasants' War. It was during this period that the main building was extended and the arsenal and granary created. The fortress owes its modern appearance to Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach (1495-1519), who had it extended and commissioned the lavish decoration of its interior. Ornamental paintings and skillfully crafted Gothic carvings can be admired in the Golden Hall and the Golden Room. Fifty-eight inscriptions and the famous coat of arms are additional reminders of his rule. Since the days of Leonhard von Keutschach, the lion that is the symbol of the fortress has held a beetroot in its paws. The last significant structural modification to the fortress was the construction of the impressive Khuenburg bastion.
Throughout its long history, Hohensalzburg has never been captured or successfully besieged by its enemies. The only damage suffered by the fortress was relatively insignificant and occurred during the Peasants' War. Malevolent peasants managed to gain control of a cannon and fired straight at their overlord's residence from the Kapitelplatz square in the city below. To this day, the dent left in a thick column of Untersberg marble bears witness to the only direct threat to leave its mark on the building.
During periods when there was no direct military threat to the city, it was used as a barracks and prison.
After heading back down the mountain we stopped at an outdoor café to soak up the sunshine and share a wienerschnitzel. I then peeled off to hit the museum of modern art, kids and Joe sought out some ice cream.
We met up a bit later to attend a marionette performance of “The Magic Flute.” Too bad I didn’t realize until well into it that the story was relayed in the abridged version on a screen to the side…(I thought Joe had a twitch which made him keep turning to the right).
Before dinner we collapsed at the hotel for a bit, then hit Alt Salzburg for our last evening meal in the city. A very traditional, quaint little restaurant in the heart of Old Town where we had great service and very good food. Again, weinerschnitzel for Claire. I had stuffed nudeln (sp?) with crayfish – very nice dish, Joe had duck. We all left happy and made our exit as a big group of what looked like concert attendees made their way in.
Wed.
This a.m. I got up for a final walk around the city, stopped in at the Church of St. Sebastian. Lovely. Behind it is the cemetery where Mozart and others of fame are buries so I walked through. It’s also lovely, packed with markers, family plots, statues and memorials.
And then we left for the train station, which is in a state of repair. After discerning we were waiting for the wrong train to Vienna (the slow one) we hightailed it to a different bin and a couple hours later arrived in the big city.
Our Turkish cab driver had only good things to say about Vienna, gave us an overview on the sites around our hotel and told us which cafes to hit.
After settling in we made our way to the center of town and took a carriage ride. Nice, relaxing, if a bit bumpy way to see many of Vienna’s gorgeous buildings and streets. From there we hit St. Stephansdom, checked it out then climbed the 340 or so steps up the North Tower.
The motivation for climbing all of these European towers, domes and monuments is of course due to the great views, appreciation for the work that went into some of these historic buildings, etc. And frankly because we can. Let’s face it; if we end up back here in our 70’s we’ll be doing bus tours and climbing a max of 30 stairs while moaning about the impact on our knees.
About the church:
The Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral) in Vienna has survived through many wars and has become a symbol of Vienna's freedom. The Gothic cathedral was first built in 1147 AD and its most recognizable characteristic, the diamond-patterned tile roof, was added in 1952.
The first church to occupy the site of St. Stephan's Cathedral was a Romanesque church, which was replaced by a larger Romanesque basilica in 1147. A major fire in 1258 destroyed the basilica and construction on the present Gothic cathedral began in the early 14th century.
The cathedral suffered damage during the Turkish seige of 1683 and again in the closing days of World War II, when fire from street fighting leapt to the rooftop.
The cathedral was reopened in 1948; the roof was repaired and decorated with ceramic tiles donated by Viennese citizens in 1950.
Among the important events that have occurred at St. Stephen's are Mozart's wedding in 1782 and his funeral in December 1791.
The tower we climbed rises to 450 feet and is named Alter Steffl, "Old Steve." Originally built between 1359 and 1433, it was reconstructed after severe war damage.
The Dom’s Pummerin bell is one of the largest bells in the world, cast from a cannon captured from the Turks in 1683. It rings out over the city on New Year's Eve.
The "O5" carved into the stone outside the cathedral's massive front door has important historical significance. The 5 stands for the fifth letter of the alphabet, E. When added to the O it makes OE, the abbreviation for Österreich (Austria). It was a covert sign of resistance to the Nazi annexation of Austria.
After our climb we all needed sustenance so we found the acclaimed Café Central and had coffee/drinks and desserts – apple strudel for me, chocolate cake for the kids, some decadent chocolate drink for Joe.
Sugared up we wandered a bit, then had dinner at the Palmenhaus, a wonderful restaurant in an arboretum. Gorgeous, lofty place with lovely palms here and there – very good food, too – we shared the Palmenhaus starter (big capers, prosciutto, cheese and salad) – lovely olive tapenade. And we also shared the mixed seafood grill. Fabulous fish and grilled veggies.
Thursday
This morning I took a walk around Vienna, found myself on the city’s major shopping street. A little window shopping and some great smells wafting from all the bakeries.
Back at the K&K Maria Teresa we started with another breakfast of plenty; Claire was happy: crispy bacon, croissants and nutella. Ava’s again gone in for the sliced peppers, salami and pickles.
Lovely blue sky day and we were off by bus for a tour around the city, then to the Schunbrunn Palace (summer palace of the Hapsburgs). It’s immense and painted in the color of royalty – gold.
Our guide took us through several of the rooms, gave us some great sound bites, we all oohed and ahed over the fancy furnishings, décor, etc.
In our free time we wandered the market out front of the palace and the gardens in back. Back on the bus we got some insight on life in Austria today…kids go to school until noon, lunch at home, university is paid for, as is healthcare. Retirement at 65 and 50 for women and men, respectively, paid at 80 percent of salary. We’ll move here when we’re decrepit. Of course none of this is free – taxes up to 50%.
After being dropped off at the Opera House, center city, we walked to Nashtmarkt for lunch – a long strip of market shops (lots of food) and restaurants. With the nice weather we opted for a German sidewalk café and had bratwursts and more schnitzel. Then we wandered through more market stuff and hopped a cab down to the Danube. No boat cruises just yet so we headed to nearby Prater Park for the infamous Giant Ferris Wheel.
Of course that was our first order of business – it was built in the late 1800’s so feels a bit rickety but that didn’t cause us much pause. Our rectangular “car” had a wooden plank seat in the middle, which we shared with several other Ferris wheel friends. Great views and the perfect, clear, sunny afternoon for it.
We then wandered further into the amusement park, found the ponies and stopped for rides. Then onto the train for a spin through the place – it’s HUGE. And aren’t all amusement parks the same world-over? Tacky w/ cheap plastic lights, bored attendants, deep fried food and a wide mix of visitors. I think the kids are much more excited about the thrill rides these days…bummer their parents' stomachs aren’t quite up for the excitement.
From the park we hit the Vienna underground – quick and easy to use – and collapsed before dinner. I sought out the hotel sauna. It was fiercely hot; after turning it down and (cardinal sin) letting some air out it felt less like a roasting oven.
For dinner we headed to Wiener Rathauskeller, which I guess I assumed to be a very casual publike restaurant near the hotel. Low and behold we found ourselved in the basement of the very gorgeous, stately Rauthaus and the restaurant was beautifully decorated, very elegant and ornate.
We had a lovely meal. I had the very traditional Austrian noodles and cabbage (which sounds non-descript but done by the Wiener Rathauskeller chef was amazing), Joe had steak, kids: wienerschnitzel.
Friday
This morning was chillier; thank heavens for really good coffee. Off we went to watch the Lippizaners train. We didn’t hear any of them cough though…
We watched two different groups of riders work their gorgeous, graceful white horses through various gaits and dance moves. Set to music, it was lovely and very relaxing and in a very auspicious setting – amazing chandeliers, ceilings, paintings, etc. decorate the walls of the arena.
Naturally we didn’t leave without a souvenir – a Lippizaner toy set for Claire, purse for Ava.
We then perused the Treasury – amazing amount of Hapsburg and Church wealth on display – crowns, jewelry, coats of arms, robes, decorative swords, various religious symbols inlaid with jewels.
Then we were on to the zoo! Back to Shonbrunn Palace, the time via tube, we stopped by for a bit at Ankar, Austria’s most prevalent bakery. Good sandwiches.
A few hours of admiring hippos, tigers, lions, aviaries and being grossed out by rats and insects later, we found the elephants (which true, are hard to miss) and bathroom. Thus marked our fill of the zoo. Back in our neighborhood we opted for ice cream and hot chocolate. Then we collaped before our last dinner in Austria, this time at Glacis Beisl, just a block from our hotel.
It was another good food stop. The sign outside was a bit dubious but after going downstairs and entering into a lovely area packed with outdoor tables, I was encouraged. The inside was lovely – lots of skilights and windows, lovely wooden tables and candlelight. And we had great service. I tried the goat terrine, which Ava liked. The calvados apples and berry sauce accompanying it were particularly good.
My main was a peirogi dish – very tasty. Joe had kid goat after learning the lamb included organ meats. And kids…well schnitzel all the way.
Saturday
On our last day in Austria we hurried over to the Zoom Children’s Museum for a 90 minute kids’ art workshop, where each child donned blue or red overalls and made projects in a big studio. Ava made a cool basket among other things, Claire a cool collage, also among other things. A lovely woman served as their interpreter/instructor.
And then to the airport, EasyJet and home via Gatwick Express!!! Much more predictable return.
At home we caught up w/ our guests and their adventures, then we adults headed off to dinner at a traditional English pub and dining room (literally the place is called The Dining Rooms) while the 4 kids had pizza with our babysitter.
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Largest mosque in India
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